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Routes in The Underworld
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5.6 crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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8th Sin, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Cerberus S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Dark Angel, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Deal with the Devil (Open Project) S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Devil Wears Prana, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Mark of the Beast S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Roof Crack Project T A1 |
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Satan's Glory T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Tiers of Satan S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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| Type: | Trad |
| FA: | Doug Reed and Thomas Howard late 80's |
| Page Views: | 2,272 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | American Dankster on Jun 4, 2010 |
| Admins: | Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 2023 seasonal raptor closure (January 15th-August 15th)
Details
fs.usda.gov/detail/nfsnc/ne…
Shortoff Mountain South: All routes between and including C.O and Paradigm Shift are closed.
Shortoff Mountain North: All climbing routes, cliff rim, and campsites within the red band marked on the map are closed to entry. No foot traffic or camping above or below the cliff in this section. Contact the USFS for more details: 828 652 2144.
NC Wall/Apricot Buttress/The Camel: On the NC Wall, all routes between and including Tightrope and Bumblebee Buttress are closed. Apricot Buttress and The Camel are closed.
Bynum Bluff: All routes are closed.
Shortoff Mountain South: All routes between and including C.O and Paradigm Shift are closed.
Shortoff Mountain North: All climbing routes, cliff rim, and campsites within the red band marked on the map are closed to entry. No foot traffic or camping above or below the cliff in this section. Contact the USFS for more details: 828 652 2144.
NC Wall/Apricot Buttress/The Camel: On the NC Wall, all routes between and including Tightrope and Bumblebee Buttress are closed. Apricot Buttress and The Camel are closed.
Bynum Bluff: All routes are closed.
Description
Want some of the best gorge exposure around? Climb the arete at the far left side of the Underworld. Enjoy the great movement as much as the view. Be careful walking out to it.
Note: Doug Reed didn't remember many details of the route or giving it a name. Tim Larick called it Satan's Glory so that's what we went with.
Note: Doug Reed didn't remember many details of the route or giving it a name. Tim Larick called it Satan's Glory so that's what we went with.
Protection
Light Rack 0.3-2". 4 bolts, Anchor. The 20+ year old bolts are in amazing shape (this is why you use stainless!) The gear is for the walking traverse and exposed belay, gear before 1st bolt, and an optional piece between protection bolts also. If you want to leave the gear at home, be careful! A fall before the 1st bolt would be bad for you and your belayer.
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