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Dihedrals Area
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Black and White John and Mary T,TR 
Equipment Overhang T 
Equipment Overhang Right T 
Fallen Angel Variation T 
Half-A-Finger T 
Lisa's Shoulder T 
Satan's Corner T 
Satan's Nook T 
Stem the Tide S,TR 

Satan's Corner 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: FA: B. Irving, D. Wood, 1962 FFA: G. Lowe & E. Anderson
Page Views: 13,769
Submitted By: Peter Gram on May 2, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (232)
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Mark Hammond nearing the top of the second pitch a...

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Description 

Super classic jam crack. Stout for 5.8, and gear can be a little strenuous to place at times. Start in the same spot as Beckey's Wall. Satan's Corner can be done in 1 or 2 pitches, but I'd recommend doing it in a single pitch. Fairly sustained, both pitches are 5.8.

P1) Climb the vertical hand jam crack on the wall left of Beckey's Wall. The crux comes at a spot where the crack is too wide for easy foot jamming. Belay at a good sized ledge with a hand sized crack for setting an anchor.

P2) Climb a short easy crack, then step over to a ledge. Then hand jam up a steep and exposed flake, with some delicate moves required. Continue up to a fixed pin, then hand traverse left on jugs to the anchors (same anchors as Lisa's Shoulder).

Descent) Rap 100' down the dihedral back to the base. A 50 meter rope would probably only reach the ledge a little higher with some easy downclimbing.

Protection 

Standard Rack. Emphasize hand size, but I placed sizes from a green alien up to a 3.5 camalot.


Photos of Satan's Corner Slideshow Add Photo
"Satan's Corner". Photo by Blitzo.
"Satan's Corner". Photo by Blitzo.
Going for it on Pitch 2 of Satan's Corner
Going for it on Pitch 2 of Satan's Corner
At the Money on Pitch 2
At the Money on Pitch 2
1) Half-A-Finger 5.9+ 2) Black and White John and ...
BETA PHOTO: 1) Half-A-Finger 5.9+ 2) Black and White John and ...
Hackney on Diablo
Hackney on Diablo
Leading Satan's Corner (5.8) in Little Cottonwood ...
Leading Satan's Corner (5.8) in Little Cottonwood ...
Near the top of the steep hand crack.
Near the top of the steep hand crack.
Leading Satan's Corner (5.8) in Little Cottonwood ...
Leading Satan's Corner (5.8) in Little Cottonwood ...
Sharon Vinick starting the exciting traverse past ...
Sharon Vinick starting the exciting traverse past ...
Leading Satan's Corner (5.8) in Little Cottonwood ...
Leading Satan's Corner (5.8) in Little Cottonwood ...
A picture of a group climbing Satan's Corner while...
A picture of a group climbing Satan's Corner while...
Laura Sasso leading Satan's Corner.
Laura Sasso leading Satan's Corner.
2nd pitch of Satan's Corner
2nd pitch of Satan's Corner
Trying to survive the very tricky crux
Trying to survive the very tricky crux

Comments on Satan's Corner Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jun 24, 2014
By Ron Olsen
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 18, 2004
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Excellent and sustained. Extra cams from #0.5 to #2 Camalot are useful if you lead the climb as one pitch. The crux section above the halfway ledge felt harder than 5.8.
By Nathan Fisher
Jun 30, 2005
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

If you haven't done this route, get off your A$$ and do it. One long pitch makes for better climbing as it flows, and then you get to lead the entire route. 50M rope gets you to the base of Stem the Tide and then downclimb the chimney.
By vincent pierce
Aug 28, 2005
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

First pitch is a little harder than it looks. The jams are pretty deep but climbing is straight forward. Second pitch is just plain fun with a sweet flake traverse loaded with great exposure. Don't forget your foot jam on the cruxy section above the halfway ledge!
By d-know
From: electric lady land
Jan 25, 2006
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

love the exposure at the top
By Tea
Mar 23, 2006

I heard a story years ago that local hardman Doug Heinrich was soloing this route (or maybe one of the other dihedrals routes), pitched, did two flips (used to be a diver I guess), landed on the ledge on his feet , broke both ankles, and survived! What a stud. I also believe the deaths had to do with a person getting such bad rope drag, they untied to solo over to the anchors...and took the big ride to Valhalla.

Great pitch...don't miss it!
By Rob Hyldahl
Mar 25, 2006

After climbing this route a few times, the first pitch still feels somewhat insecure the whole way. 2 years ago, this was my 2nd ever trad lead as an aspiring 5.8 leader (very bad idea). Halfway through the first pitch I loaded up my shorts and bailed left to the 5.6 variation. The next week I drug an "over confident" 5.12 sport climber up there only to see him humbled in the same way. The second pitch is fantastic! Great exposure under the hand traverse. Definitely a classic.
By beerdrinker
Jul 27, 2006

tea, doug was soloing half-a-finger on his epic fall. as for the other deaths on SC: one involved the leader getting heinous rope drag, untying(!) and trying to solo the last moves; the other was a rappel accident when a fixed pin atop the "first pitch" pulled, iirc.
By David Shiembob
From: slc, ut
Sep 1, 2006

I did it as one pitch today, man this thing is cool. I find the bottom of the corner on the second pitch to be the crux. The first handcrack is so money, I ran it out (after the crux) without even realizing it.
By Mark Michaels
From: Draper, UT
Sep 23, 2006

Noah Duys died in 9/2004 while rapping from a single pin atop the first pitch. He was in a hurry as darkness approached, and rain was falling. I like to call this Noah's Corner, though I doubt that this will catch on.
By Stan Pitcher
From: SLC, UT
Aug 2, 2007

Best 5.8 pitch in LCC?? Can't think of any better. I climbed it on 6/6/6 ;)
By Christian "crisco" Burrell
From: PG, Utah
Jul 29, 2009

Have done this a dozen times and would do it many dozen more...one of my all time favorites! Each steep jamming part is made much easier with good foot jams.
By Derek Newman
From: Holladay, UT
Aug 17, 2009
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I climbed this today; it was my first multi-pitch/lead/trad climb and it was very humbling. My friend and I messed up on our protection so many times we decided to do it twice to prove to ourselves that we can protect well. We climbed well the first time but protected poor and climbed poor the second time but protected better. I felt that the crux is on the second pitch about twenty feet up, and the crux feels a lot more difficult than a 5.8 to me. But, this was very psychologically terrifying for me so I wasn't in the greatest state of mind to judge. I thought the protection is safe, but again I'm not the most experienced judge in this situation.
By Finn the Human
From: The Land of Ooo
Aug 17, 2009
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Yeah, I'm the genius that got the above poster into trouble. Still, it was a rocking climb, and required a lot more finesse than I can usually pull off :P

The crux is definitely pulling up the crack on the second pitch. Don't be afraid (like I was!) to smear in order to get a good high foot jam. Super exposed traverse on the biggest rail you'll ever find (feels like a ladder rung) makes you feel like a badass!
By daniel c
From: San Francisco, CA
Sep 16, 2009
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

P1 - Straightforward if you are comfortable jamming. I saw a strong sport climber take a fall on this section due to lack of jamming skills
P2 - Easy low angle crack to a steeper, left pushing hand crack, flaring in sections making jamming impossible. Agree with Taylor - key for me was to smear left foot (yikes! exposure!), jam right foot, walk up hands, repeat. Don't clip that manky old fixed cam!

Great route. Have fun with it!
By Barry52
Dec 9, 2009

The morning that I first climbed Satan's was ominous. My friend and I got to the base, and found thick, caked, dried blood all over the ground. It was just a few spatters--it was at least an inch thick in some places, and it was literally ALL OVER! Needless to say, we were a little freaked-out. It was about 5:30 -- 6:00 a.m. Great route though!
By Michael Buchanan
Aug 17, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Should probably do the route in one pitch to save time and to get the "full value" experience. Kimber Almond told me he once saw Mugs Stump do this route placing only 2 pieces of pro. Merrill solos it all the time. What hardmen!
By bheller
From: SL UT
Aug 17, 2010

I don't think Merrill has climbed lcc since last decade
By user id
Aug 19, 2010

Holy name drop! Who the fuck is Limber Almonds?
By Azollo
Jun 14, 2011

I lean with those that say 5.9+, but I have only climbed it once on lead when I was tired (so I won't add my rating yet).

Classic.

Quick question though. When I got to the top piton, I threw up high for a big juggy ledge and then traversed. Some other guy says the proper way is to traverse from the piton to the bolts without popping to the ledge. That traverse looked crazy to me (though throwing up to the ledge felt crazy too :D). How do you guys do it?
By Josh Cameron
From: Moab, Colorado
Jul 4, 2011
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I think it's fair to call this climb 5.8+. Definitely not 5.9 though. If you don't know how to handjam, then this climb will let you know! Also, how can you not climb a route with such a great name.
By KaraFinch
Jul 22, 2011

So we climbed this last night (great route) but it was getting dark and we ended up leaving a yellow cam at the top. If anybody was going up today and found it, wouldja mind keeping it for me? I'll pay you twenty bucks! Just post below this comment and give me your phone # and we'll pick a meet up spot. Thanks!
By Woodson
From: Park City, Ut.
Jul 25, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Azollo: The low way is not bad, but I like the high traverse myself. It's a good rail to grab on to, and plus there is a great spot for a small cam up there to protect your second. I've seen some folks intimidated by the move to grab the flake above the piton-it's a bit of a reach :)
By Christian West
Sep 30, 2011
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I've seconded this twice in the last month and it is an awesome climb. I found it pumpy and the last move a bit scary but commit to the juggy ledge and it's a money feeling.
By JoeyS
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Mar 28, 2012

Great route definitely deserves the high rating. The traverse to the bolts isn't bad because there's solid feet all the way over. On another note I had a BD #2 walk way back into the crack just above the crux. It would be great to get it back in exchange for some beers.
By Joseph Lascurain
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Jul 13, 2012

Great exposure, fun moves, a new favorite.
By Buddy
Jul 17, 2012

Climbed this route during both dry and wet conditions. The lower pitch gets wet, but the jams are solid even while it is raining. The upper pitch (and crux) stay pretty dry during rain, as a slight overhang above provides some shelter. I don't recommend climbing Satan's during wet conditions, but lightening and thunder forced a quick retreat from the summit, and abandoned gear on the route required recovery. Good times.
By BJB
From: Austin, TX
Jul 24, 2012

The Wastach range guide warns that this rout is really difficult to protect and that people have died on it, so we almost didn't do it which would have been a big mistake. I thought it was one of the most fun in the canyon. I thought the pro was all pretty straight forward. We did it in one pitch using a single set of stoppers and a set of cams up to a 3 Friend with no duplicates.
Its also a bit safer now thanks to whoever got their $80 tricam stuck.
By Kevin Chuba
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Oct 24, 2013
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

Great route! Tri-cam is still at the crux section. Keep your feet in the crack and stand up. Did it in one pitch with a 70 meter rope with no issues getting back to the ground. Doubles in hand size pieces. A #3 and you can even bring a #4! I did not have the 4 but it will go. I want to lead it again.
By Jake Billitteri
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Jun 9, 2014

Great hand jams and laybacking for the majority of the route. Then there is an awesome, highly exposed series of moves towards the end of the second pitch. I didn't really find this climb hard to protect. Highly recommend!
By S.Cohen
Jun 24, 2014

I found the steep crack to be the crux. Upper section is money!