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 ADVANCED
The Dihedrals
Select Route:
Arete Style Dysfunction S 
Arrow, The T 
Billy Tipton T 
Black Arete TR 
Buzz Junky T 
Cotter's Corner T 
Day Tripper T,TR 
Devil Won't Care T 
Devil's Corner T 
Face off in Albania S 
Fuzzy Tights T 
Haggis T 
Head Cement T 
Juicer, The S 
Prepare to meet thy God T 
Racing Dog S 
Satan's Ceiling T 
Thanador S 
Trick Bag S 
Trojan Elite T 
Twin Cracks T 

Satan's Ceiling 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 65'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 1,019
Submitted By: Rafiki on Jul 8, 2007

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John Ciccone on the lead.

Description 

In my opinion, this is the best trad climb in Little Falls. I drove 3hrs+ after work one night just to climb this line. The move over the roof is wild.
Climb a crack to a ledge below a roof. Instead of climbing straight up through the chockstone as for Devil Won't Care, move out left through a flake on the roof (crux).

In the old guidebook, "Satan's Ceiling" climbs the direct face to the left of the crack at 10c. A more difficult climb, but less aesthetic and the pro sucks. I would recommend climbing The Devil Won't Care to the roof and moving out the flake as I have described.

Location 

This is on the right side of the Dihedrals. Look for a crack capped by a roof about 55ft up. This climb is just right of a laser-cut dihedral known as Devil's Corner 5.11b.

Protection 

Protection is excellent, crux is protected. Bring upto a #4BD camalot.


Photos of Satan's Ceiling Slideshow Add Photo
Crappy photo of me pulling the roof on Satan's Ceiling 5.9
Crappy photo of me pulling the roof on Satan's Cei...

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