Your todo list:
Your rating: -none-
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE: [0 people like this page.]
John Ciccone on the lead.
In my opinion, this is the best trad climb in Little Falls. I drove 3hrs+ after work one night just to climb this line. The move over the roof is wild.
Climb a crack to a ledge below a roof. Instead of climbing straight up through the chockstone as for Devil Won't Care, move out left through a flake on the roof (crux).
In the old guidebook, "Satan's Ceiling" climbs the direct face to the left of the crack at 10c. A more difficult climb, but less aesthetic and the pro sucks. I would recommend climbing The Devil Won't Care to the roof and moving out the flake as I have described.
This is on the right side of the Dihedrals. Look for a crack capped by a roof about 55ft up. This climb is just right of a laser-cut dihedral known as Devil's Corner 5.11b.
Protection is excellent, crux is protected. Bring upto a #4BD camalot.
Crappy photo of me pulling the roof on Satan's Cei...