Satan's Ceiling  5.9

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 65 feet Consensus:  5.9- [details] FA:  Unknown Submitted By:  Rafiki on Jul 8, 2007 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

John Ciccone on the lead.

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Description 

In my opinion, this is the best trad climb in Little Falls. I drove 3hrs+ after work one night just to climb this line. The move over the roof is wild.
Climb a crack to a ledge below a roof. Instead of climbing straight up through the chockstone as for Devil Won't Care, move out left through a flake on the roof (crux).

In the old guidebook, "Satan's Ceiling" climbs the direct face to the left of the crack at 10c. A more difficult climb, but less aesthetic and the pro sucks. I would recommend climbing The Devil Won't Care to the roof and moving out the flake as I have described.

Location 

This is on the right side of the Dihedrals. Look for a crack capped by a roof about 55ft up. This climb is just right of a laser-cut dihedral known as Devil's Corner 5.11b.

Protection 

Protection is excellent, crux is protected. Bring upto a #4BD camalot.

Photos of Satan's Ceiling Slideshow

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Crappy photo of me pulling the roof on Satan's Cei...