Satanic Mechanic 5.12a/b
| 1,327 page views
Good page?   |
| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.12b [details] |
| FA: | Roy McClenahan & Doug McDonald, 2/88 |
| Submitted By: | Randy on Mar 9, 2003 |
| |
Satanic Mechanic. Photo credit unknown
Add Photo  Printer View
Description This popular sport route is the furthest right bolted route on the South Face of Turtle Rock. It lies about 100+ feet right of Desert Shield. This is the right-hand of 2 routes that begin here (and share the anchor).
Easy climbing leads to a crack-like feature arching up and right. Above, clip a bolt, then move left then up (crux) to the last bolt. A tricky move or two up and left to some pockets/crack keep it interesting to the end.
Protection Bolts to sport anchor. Draws are all you need. To set a TR, climb up and left to above anchors (belay probably needed).
| Comments on Satanic Mechanic |
|
By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Jun 27, 2004
rating: 5.12a
| Great route on mostly great rock. We set it up as a TR, but plenty leadable. As said, easier climbing leads to a nice, asthetic series of moves 3/4 the way up with a tough exit. In the afternoon shade, the route is a nice escape from the sun. |
By Josh Beck
Jul 6, 2004
rating: 5.12b
| This a fantastic, route, very steep and athletic by jtree standards. Of course it can be led, it's a sport route! Definitely cruxy, and while it may not be harder than every jtree 12a, I feel 12b is a more fair rating. |
By Tyler Logan
From: Moreno Valley, CA
Mar 24, 2008
rating: 5.12b
| Seeing as this route recently celebrated its twentieth anniversary, perhaps it should be gifted with some new hardware. |
By Will S
From: Joshua Tree
Nov 30, 2012
| This route presents a dilemma: try to clip mid crux move, or pull through then clip. The fall isn't the best if you don't clip, with a risk of hitting the lower angle stuff below, but if you aren't tall it's very hard (impossible for me) to clip before committing. Once you've pulled the move and have the bolt clipped, a couple more hard moves on thin edges lead to easier climbing to the anchor. In any case, have an aware belayer. |
|
RSS Feed
1 more...
