Note - A of the Black Jack boulders west of and including the Moat Boulder are on private property. The property line runs from the road where the trail near pole # 39 runs along the stream up between the Zig-zag Boulder and the Moat Boulder, up to a point just below Starship Enterprise Crag. It then runs west to the Boundary Boulder, where it then turns and runs up hill through part of the Prudential Crag.
The owner is climber friendly, but obviously visitors should be on their best guest behavior. Keep your voices down, don't leave trash, old tarps or wood pallets under the boulders. Particularly, do not bellow profanities. The noise carries right down to his house which is below and can be quite tiresome. This is his property and you are on it at his discretion.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
A New England classic. Head straight up and out the overhang. Many different sequences will get you most of the way up the boulder, but the crux for most will be the last couple moves, when you can no longer keep your feet down low.
Apparently this was originally a v8 when Sherman sent it, using a blowtorch to dry the holds. The upper jug exfoliated, leaving the problem in its current state. Dave Graham got the first re-ascent.
By Lanky From: Portland, ME Aug 22, 2008 rating: V97C
As I understand it, Satan on a Half Shell starts about in the middle of the boulder and follows a vertical rail feature up until you traverse a few moves left, set up on crimps, and chuck for the broken hold.
Satan's Sister Sally starts further left and moves straight into the same dyno using a right hand crimp and left hand slot.
One of my all time favorites!! Watch out for a puddle that forms right above the top out. If it's full, water will leech down a crack and onto the upper crux hold. I've had to bail out the puddle a couple of times with a piece of bark. Good landing, great line!
By Lanky From: Portland, ME Feb 22, 2010 rating: V97C
I hate to be that guy, but I think this is easier than V10. Both versions feel about the same (though Satan's Sister Sally may be a touch easier), but neither feels as hard as I expect a V10 to feel.