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SARS Left and Right
5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 1 from 2 votes
Type: | Trad, 40 ft (12 m) |
FA: | 2013 |
Page Views: | 562 total · 5/month |
Shared By: | Jay Harrison on Jun 6, 2014 |
Admins: | Morgan Patterson, Kevin MudRat MacKenzie, Jim Lawyer |
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Description
Doable as a sport route, but the original ascent placed a pc. or two leading up the initial face. It's possible, during dry spells, to skip the start by climbing up the ugly notch to the block.
Climb up and right to the right side of a block lying on a sloping ledge at the upper end of the notch. Use the block to clip the first bolt, but step down to enjoy the initial move getting onto the upper face. (SARS Left uses the block, then moves left to avoid the crux, taming the route by two grades). Once on the upper face, sketchy moves along a right-rising seam allow another bolt clip (be careful doing this one). Now make holdless moves right to gain another seam. Move up and right along it to top out.
Climb up and right to the right side of a block lying on a sloping ledge at the upper end of the notch. Use the block to clip the first bolt, but step down to enjoy the initial move getting onto the upper face. (SARS Left uses the block, then moves left to avoid the crux, taming the route by two grades). Once on the upper face, sketchy moves along a right-rising seam allow another bolt clip (be careful doing this one). Now make holdless moves right to gain another seam. Move up and right along it to top out.
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