Sardikar 5.10+
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 120 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10+ [details] |
| FA: | unknown to me |
| Submitted By: | Tony B on Oct 29, 2005 |
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Description This climb is way left on the Optimator wall and is one of it's 'full length' pitches. You need a 70M rope to lower off.Walk left to the near end of the wall, where you will see the awazing route "Jews On Crack", a huge right-facing corner that hooks right at the top for a 20' roof traverse with a wide-hands undercling jam-fest.Just back right of this there is a left facing corner that goes forever with a variable width crack to a fixed anchor. This climb Sardikar lives in the shadow of its more stunning neighbors (Soul Fire is the cool thin-hands to hands spillter just to the right), but is no less a great route. The variety fo the crack makes it accessable to those who forgot to bring 12 #3's to the cliff.
Protection 2-3 of everything from .5" to 3.5"
By Rob Dillon
From: '81 Sunrader
Jun 8, 2006
| The start of this one had sort of an 'Eldo' feel to it: intermittent pro, tricky stemming, that sort of thing. I liked it. |
By Mike
From: Phoenix
Nov 5, 2009
rating: 5.10+ PG13
| I thought this climb was a bit scary. It isn't your typical IC splitter. Also there is a loose flake that you need to yard on/step on that was a bit heady. Fun though for sure. |
By D-Storm
May 3, 2010
| Rope beta: With about 12 feet trimmed off of a 70-meter rope, and after cleaning all the gear and with the knot at the Grigri, I was able to swing onto the top of a boulder to the right of the climb. I would agree that this route has a serious nature and would not be a good choice for someone just starting to lead 10+/11-. In addition to the tricky gear, there is a long section of #2 Camalots where there is lensing that makes them a tad suspect — the wall is hollow. Fun climb, though, and worth doing at least once if you've done everything else there. |
By slim
Nov 28, 2011
rating: 5.10d PG13
| funky climbing at the start, with careful gear and not excellent rock. kind of out of character for the creek. upper part is real fun. |
By 303scott
Mar 12, 2012
| Don't miss this route! Great climbing, but, as stated above, a bit funky/scary off the deck. Before pulling the hard moves 25 feet up you can get two small pieces in a wedged chockstone of questionable quality, or it looks like it would take a bomber #5 Camalot. If the chockstone pieces blow, you deck. After that, it's 95 feet of glorious climbing. |
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