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Sarawak

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Bako National Park 
Gunung Buros: White Magic Wall 
Gunung Sireh: Fairy Caves 

Sarawak 


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Elevation: 2,377'
Location: 1.6697, 110.083 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 3,929
Administrator: Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Glen Charnoski on Nov 1, 2011
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Description 

The Malaysian state of Sarawak is the lesser known of the two Malaysian States in Borneo (the other being Sabah). Sarawak is an off-the-beaten-track destination. While it lacks the "world class" attractions of Sabah (eg. coral reefs and a 4000m peak), it offers the climber, in our case, over 30 steep limestone sport routes (only 30 minutes from the lovely town of Kuching) nested in karst hills covered in rainforest amongst laidback tribal villages. Sarawak also offers the adventure hiker/climber 2000m rugged and remote peaks in Mulu National Park (also Batu Lawi and Gunung Murud), in stark contrast to seaside bouldering at Bako National Park. Sarawak offers it all for those jaded climbers who've been there/done that, willing to make the extra effort to get there from nearby over-visited Thailand.


Getting There 

There are cheap flights every few hours from Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia to Kuching. You can book cheap flights thru Air Asia's website, but you must book in advance for the cheapest flights. If not, Malaysian Airlines might be a more economical alternative, as they don't charge for luggage and snacks. Flights are also direct from Singapore. If coming from Hong Kong (via Sabah), there are numerous cheap flights with Air Asia to Kuching thru Kota Kinabalu.

WARNING: The rainy season is late October thru March, and seas are usually rough and Bako National Park is inacessable some of the time. However, all the climbing areas around Fairy Cave stay dry. Above the climbs(on Gunung Sireh) are overhanging cliffs and vegetation, and protect the steep limestone climbing walls below, which remain dry through even intense downpours.


38 Total Routes


['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',12],['2 Stars',19],['1 Star',5],['Bomb',0]
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Featured Route For Sarawak
Kapur Chimney is on the left side of this photo. The climber is resting on Simtoi (5.12a).

Kapur Chimney 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b  Asia : Malaysia : ... : Batman Wall
The crux is the start. Pull hard from the undercling traversing right to reach small holds where you can heelhook over the lip to gain a stance above the lip. Otherwise, an easier start goes straight up to a hidden pocket deep in the hollow, then traverse right, then up the vertical smooth wall. Do an armlock in the chimney to ascend. A second crux comes in the smooth chimney with no feet (or step on the bolt like my wife) to gain an easier ground to big holds finish. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

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