Sapien 5.12c
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| Type: | Sport, 80 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.12+ [details] |
| FA: | A. Miller, P. Steadman, 2004 |
| Submitted By: | Anthony Stout on Mar 8, 2006 |
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Sapien action. February 2012.
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Description The start climbs past two bolts on low angle rock. After cliping a bolt just where the overhang begins, push yourself through STEEP overhanging rock, clipping four fixed draws, then going over the lip. Take a good rest and finish on a 5.11d roof at the top of the route. Watch the cactus following the 5.11d roof, removing cactus splinters for the next two days was NOT the highlight of my climbing trip!
Location On the far right of the Solar Cave crag there are a few projects, then a 5.12b called Clovis Hunter. Just to the left of that route you will see a series of four fixed draws. This is the route that you are looking for.
Protection Bolts to anchors.
By Amy Jordan
Mar 17, 2007
rating: 5.12c/d
| Sapien was my FAVORITE route in the cave, but it recently lost some critical rock in the middle, bumping the grade up to 12d (so they say---I haven't been on it since). |
By John Kear
From: Albuquerque, NM
May 2, 2008
rating: 5.12d
| The route definitely feels more sustained now with the missing jug and heel hooking ledge gone between the 1st and second bolts. The second clip is sort of cruxy now. Perhaps now a little closer to the original 12d rating. |
By MattL
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 25, 2009
rating: 5.12d
| I would agree that it feels more like 12d after the recent rockfall. There is a crucial crimp near the fourth fixed chain that looks fractured - might come off soon if not reinforced...If it fell off it could raise the difficulty by a letter grade. |
By Keith Beckley
From: Santa Fe
Nov 19, 2011
rating: 5.12c
| Wonderful sequential climbing up edges and underclings. |
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