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Sao Bento is the closest significant climbing area to Sao Paulo. It lies north-east of the city, and is about three hours away by car. Sao Bento’s main landmark is a rock formation called the Pedra do Bau. It is about 1000 feet tall and is home to a wide range of climbing routes from long multi-pitch trad lines to short, hard sport climbs. Lying next to Bau are Bauzinho and Ana Chata, two smaller formations. The rock is granite and the climbing is characterized by techy face climbing on small edges and crystals. There are a few cracks scattered around, but don’t expect to find perfect splitters like those in Yosemite or Patagonia. There are also many different sport crags (falesias in Portuguese) and good bouldering scattered around.
There is a direct bus from Sao Paulo to Sao Bento once or twice a day. It stops briefly in Taubate, before heading north into the mountains. It leaves from the Tiete bus terminal in Sao Paulo, which is easily accessed by metro, bus, or taxi. If you have a car, just check out a map.
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Featured Route For Sao Bento da Sapucai
Teto do Baú 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a A1 R South America : Brazil : Sao Bento da Sapucai
"Teto do Baú" (Baú's Roof) is a classic aid line in the Mantiqueira range, and a super aerial in 90% of its two pitches.Grade is A1 5c french/5.9 YDS line that starts at a small plateau, following the south side tip of Pedra do Baú. After about 40 "Ps" (home made bolts very commom in Brazil shaped as a P, I'll refer to them here as bolts to make reading easier), you reach the first anchor station. From there to the top lies the A1 grade, for you need to climb a bit in order to reach two other bo...[more] Browse More Classics in International
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