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Santa's Escape 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b X

   
Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 65'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: FRA: Taino Grosjean
Page Views: 2,185
Submitted By: Taino on Jan 19, 2007

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BETA PHOTO: Santa's Escape

Description 

Why is it called "Santa's Escape"? Because it's a CHIMNEY!

You can get some absolutely fantastic pictures from inside the chimney, looking out; walk around the detached block, keeping it on your left - this will bring you over to the Cuckoo's Nest/Psycho Wall areas, and the other entrance to the chimney. Walk to the end of it, and you can see/take pictures of the climber on Santa's Escape.


Location 

Walk into chimney approx 15 feet, just past the first large boulder. Climb straight up to top. Both sides of the chimney are on. Easy walk-off.


Protection 

There is no protection whatsoever on this route; if you fall, and your body doesn't jam to stop you, you're gonna fall a long way. TR is the best option. All gear anchor, using long static line to reach the cracks on top. Use a rope bag to protect the anchor legs.



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By Rockanice
Jun 25, 2013

Hi Taino,

Curt Dempster and I led a route in 2000 ( Conor's Corridor 5.5 ) starting approximately where you describe, but must be a little different as we had pro. After some stemming up about ten to fifteen feet you get your first pro ( the entrance fee ! ) Then G-PG thereafter with maybe four or five good placements along the way to top out. Very unique climbing with pro on both walls after the entrance fee is paid ! Will look for your gearless 5.7 line, lot's of potential in there. Good job.

By Cody Robinson
From: Kingston, NY
Nov 10, 2013

Great route, the chimney has several fun lines and a top rope is easy to set up.