Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
Penitente - Inner Canyon
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
10,000 Maniacs 
A Virgin No More 
Air Jordan 
Anatomy 101 
Apes in Estrus 
B1 or V5 
Bad Rap 
Banana Slugs in Heat 
Black Jesus 
Black Sheets of Rain 
Breakdown Dead Ahead 
Brown Sugar 
Bullet the Blue Sky 
Candy Apple Grey 
Children Of A Lesser Grade 
Colville Express 
Concupiscent Curds 
Dazed and Confuzed 
Dog's Delight 
El Dedo Es la Llave 
Forever Young 
Freddy's Nightmare 
Friday the 13th 
Handle with Care 
Harvey's Wallbanger 
Head Over Heals 
Heaven Can Wait 
Hip Hop 
How The West Was Won 
Huecos Rancheros 
I'd Rather Leia than Jabba 
Innocent Mission 
Jabba the Hut 
Jack and Diane 
Jewel Of The Mild 
Los Hermanos de la Penitente 
Los Hermanos de la Weenie Way 
Ms. Cool 
No Intent 
No Sweat, No Vapor 
Not My Cross To Bear 
Nueve a Seis 
Ordinary People 
Passion Play 
Pumping Huecos 
Ranck E 
Reptiles Lust and Dogs 
Santa Cruz 
Schizoid Way 
Shady Lady 
Shear Strength 
Sheer Lunacy 
Sister of Mercy 
Soul Boy 
Tanks for the Hueco 
Tao of Gymnastic 
True Penitence 
Unknown (5.6 ramp) 
Unknown 5.10a 
Unknown 5.10d 
Vapor Trails 
Unsorted Routes:

Santa Cruz 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Jim Dinapoli, 8/84
Page Views: 1,779
Submitted By: shad O'Neel on Sep 9, 2004
Good Page?0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Add Photo Add Comment    Printer View


This climb is located just a wee wander up from the virgin area and is identified by a sequence of cracks each offset a couple feet. Indeed, the crux is changing from one crack to the other as the first peters out. For a moderate route (although a stout 5.8), this is about as good as it gets at Penitente and is a great reason to haul gear in. I placed mostly nuts, a small one at the crux. It is super fun and different when your tips are spent from pulling on thin crimpers.


Nuts and cams to 2" plus some quickdraws or slings for the bolt anchor.

Comments on Santa Cruz Add Comment
Show which comments
By Mitch Musci
Oct 29, 2005

I found this line to be enjoyable with nice cracks and good feet. I remember the pro was kinda funky in spots, with the crack opening up in the back.

By Jesse Morehouse
From: CO
Jun 15, 2008
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

A mediocre climb with a poorly protected crux that is hard for the grade. Not recommended for a budding 5.8 leader. The crux is pulled just above a low angle apron which you will definitely bounce off of if you blow the moves since your pro is low at this point.

We've climbed it a few times because I doubted my initial impressions but my wife and I both agree- it isn't a very good climb. There are much better places to plug gear at this grade around the canyons. Possibly the best climb at this grade is Mark's Crack a 5.8(-)/5.7 hand crack right of Whipping Post.

By Kevin Landolt
From: Fort Collins, Wyoming
Mar 18, 2011

I found this to be a very enjoyable climb on great rock - well worth the effort.

By Aaron D
From: Salida, CO
May 6, 2011

Great climb - one of the best moderates in Penitente.

By Chris Mack
May 19, 2013

This route doesn't suck. The crux is VERY well protected with a fairly bomber #0.75 Camalot (at chest height) and then you can place a BOMBER nut about 1 foot away from that when you change cracks. I agree that if you are a 5.8 leader, it is going to seem a little intense, but it isn't any harder than .8+ or perhaps 1 move of 5.9. It looks improbable from the trail that it would go at 5.8, and the rock is generally excellent the whole way up. A solid crack route at Penitente, with a bolted anchor, that has an exciting move or two, with bomber rock, that goes at 5.8 and you don't even need tape? How could it suck!? Sign me the fuck up!