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Santa Barbara

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* Santa Barbara Bouldering 
Cathedral Peak 
Cielo Crack Crag 
Crag Full of Dynamite 
Fire Crags 
Gibraltar Area 
Green Dome 
Hermit Rock 
Hot Springs Canyon 
La Cumbre Peak 
Lower Mission Canyon / Seven Falls 
Paradise Road 
Playground, The 
Potter's Point 
Renaissance Crag (AKA Rattlesnake Canyon Crag) 
San Ysidro 

Santa Barbara 


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Location: 34.4477, -119.68 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: andy patterson, M.Morley, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: EricT on Jan 31, 2006
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BETA PHOTO: Looking out at Santa Barbara (mainly UCSB) and the...

Getting There 

Santa Barbara is a low-key town an hour north of Los Angeles. Take the 101 north and you go right through town.


Description 

Santa Barbara has a large number of short cliffs scattered about the ridgeline behind the city. The rock is dense sandstone of mixed quality and primarily bolted. Like San Luis Obispo, it's not a destination area, but good routes exist.

The rock is soft, and softer when wet, so please respect the one day of drying for each day of rain rule.

Guidebooks currently available in local stores:

  • Rock Climbing Santa Barbara & Ventura by Steve Edwards (well put together and still quite complete, covers roped routes as well as the major bouldering areas)
  • Ocean's Eleven - Bouldering around Santa Barbara by Bob Banks (brand spankin' new!)

And a guidebook not currently available in stores, but obtainable on Ebay, Amazon, etc:

  • "Climbing! Santa Barbara, Ventura, San Luis Obispo" by Steve Tucker and Kevin Steele. A fabulous text that pays ample homage to Santa Barbara's traditional roots. A little outdated in some areas, but a gem of adventurous and off-the-beaten-track routes nonetheless. It's out of print, so happy searching!

Here's some additional climbing related links with a local flair:

  • www.king-dino.com: catalogue of climbing and assorted adventure from guidebook author Bob Banks.

  • www.crankenstein.com: let burly sport climber and Owl Tor afficionado Elijah Ball show you what's rad, and what's not. Topics range from climbing to freediving to weightlifting.


551 Total Routes


['4 Stars',44],['3 Stars',206],['2 Stars',194],['1 Star',89],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',19],['5.7',15],['5.8',20],['5.9',23],['5.10',54],['5.11',32],['5.12',13],['5.13',6],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',76],['V2-3',131],['V4-5',69],['V6-7',51],['V8-9',32],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',11],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Santa Barbara:
Goldak   V0 4     Boulder, 18'   The Lizard's Mouth : The Mouth
Lord of the Flies   V0+ 4+ R     Boulder   The Lizard's Mouth : Femme Fatale Area
Lizards' Mouth Traverse   V0+ 4+     Boulder, 40'   The Lizard's Mouth : The Mouth
The Extremist   V1 5     Boulder, 20'   The Brickyard : Extremist Boulder
Breathless   V2-3 5+     Boulder, 18'   The Lizard's Mouth : Meilee Area
Charlotte's Web   V3 6A     Boulder, 20'   The Brickyard : Charlotte's Web Area
Shaken, Not Stirred   V3 6A     Boulder, 14'   The Lizard's Mouth : Femme Fatale Area
Yeti   V4 6B     Boulder, 15'   The Brickyard : Yeti Boulder
Jenny   V4 6B     Boulder, 20'   Potter's Point : Debra
Watch the Dog   V4 6B     Boulder, 12'   The Brickyard : Soot Patrol Boulder
Mutants Amok   V5 6C     Boulder, 10'   Skofield Park : Cracked Boulder
The Tempest   V6 7A     Boulder, 17'   The Lizard's Mouth : Smokeys Cave
Smooth Criminal   V6 7A     Boulder, 12'   The Brickyard : Dancing Outlaw Boulder
Le Privett   V7 7A+     Boulder   * Santa Barbara Bouldering : West Nile Boulder (aka The ...
Gangster Hippie   V7 7A+     Boulder, 20'   The Lizard's Mouth : Top of the world/Entry way
Grotesque Old Woman   V7+ 7A+     Boulder, 25'   The Brickyard : Charlotte's Web Area
Dancing Outlaw   V8 7B     Boulder, 20'   The Brickyard : Dancing Outlaw Boulder
Great Race   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 70'   San Ysidro
T-Crack   5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   Gibraltar Area : Gibraltar Rock
The Nose   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 100'   Gibraltar Area : Gibraltar Rock
Browse More Classics in Santa Barbara

Featured Route For Santa Barbara
Wet Work Dihedral

Wet Work Dihedral 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b V1 5 CA : Central Coast : ... : San Ysidro (Bouldering)
Awesome. A couple big moves over several stacked small boulders allow you to reach the Yosemite style dihedral. The crack begins with perfect hand jams and slowly widens towards the top. You wont want to come off this one up high!...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

News and Events For Santa Barbara
Photos of Santa Barbara Slideshow Add Photo
Sunset over the Santa Barbara Channel. Santa Cruz Island and several offshore platforms are visible on the left horizon. <br /> <br />45 seconds with two stacked GNDs.
Sunset over the Santa Barbara Channel. Santa Cruz ...
Wild turkey - looking more Montecito than Santa Barbara.  <br /> <br />Seen on an outing to Skofield Park.
Wild turkey - looking more Montecito than Santa Ba...
Mission Santa Barbara
Mission Santa Barbara
Tarantula, photographed on a climbing outing in Skofield Park, Santa Barbara.
Tarantula, photographed on a climbing outing in Sk...
Pelicans near Santa Barbara. <br />Photo by Blitzo.
Pelicans near Santa Barbara.
Photo by Blitzo.
Beautiful Santa Barbara
Beautiful Santa Barbara
Looking east from near La Cumbre Peak, above Gibralter Rock. <br />Photo by Blitzo.
Looking east from near La Cumbre Peak, above Gibra...
Climbing at the Splashzone
Climbing at the Splashzone
Coast Live Oak, following one of the recent fires in Santa Barbara. <br /> <br />We've had three tough years in a row, but this Spring's wildfires were by far the worst yet.
Coast Live Oak, following one of the recent fires ...
Comments on Santa Barbara Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 6, 2014
By Nathan Fisher
Feb 2, 2006

Nice to see Santa Barbara make it here. I first climbed here when my brother introduced me to the sport in 1984. Man that was some years back.

By M.Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
May 16, 2006

For single-pitch sport climbing, you've got several options in and around SB:

  • Wheeler Gorge - on the way to Sespe along Hwy 33 - a good variety from 5.8 to mid 5.11 on 3 distinct rock types. Nice when it's hot, right along creek. About an hour or so from SB.
  • Little Lebowski - a good half day's worth. Short routes. A 15 min walk, just off W Camino Cielo.
  • Fire Crags - a good half day's worth. Nice views. Short routes, short approach. Right off 154 at Painted Cave.
  • Crag Full 'o Dynamite - zero approach, about a dozen short, fun routes literally right on the road. 15 minutes drive past Upper Gibraltar.

An hour and a half to the north, San Luis Obispo has some fun climbing on entirely different rock than the Santa Barbara/Ojai/Ventura variety. The best routes are on Bishop Peak and the [currently closed] Cerro Romualdo.

Pretty much the only multipitch climbing within 3 hours of Santa Barbara is at Sespe Gorge. Ending Crack is the best of the lot. Tahquitz/Suicide offers many fantastic multipitch routes, but it's a 3.5 hr drive from SB directly through L.A. Tollhouse Rock is another option for multipitch, but again, it's a good 5-hr drive, you're almost better off going to Yosemite.

By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Jun 19, 2007

Actually, there are a number of awesome multi-pitch routs in S.B.: Cathedral Peak (adventuresome 3 pitch 5.7), Upper Gibraltar (2 pitch 5.10b), and a number of others...

By Adele
From: Golden, CO
Sep 20, 2008

Has anyone found any new rock since the fire?

By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Oct 29, 2008

As of Fall 2008, much of the climbing on West Camino Cielo is closed due to some sort of post-fire mulch operation instituted by the Forest Service. Lizard's Mouth is still open, but places like the Brickyard and the Playground are off-limits until (apparently) next Fall. Please respect the Forest Service's wishes and don't climb the closed areas. There's plenty of other rock in the area.

By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
May 27, 2009

The Jesusita Fire, which destroyed more than 8700 acres, has had a dramatic effect on Santa Barbara climbing sites. Upper Rattlesnake and Upper Cold Springs Canyons suffered severe damage. The entire Gibraltar Area, including Cold Springs Dome, has burned.

To see photos of the Gibraltar Area after the fire, click here

By Rob Riggleman
From: Santa Barbara, CA
May 28, 2009

There is a trail restoration day planned for June 13th for many of the trails affected by the Jesusita fire. Not too many details on the organization of the day yet, but the general plan is to meet at Skofield park and then set out to work on the Jesusita, Tunnel, Rattlesnake, and the West Fork of the Cold Springs trails.

Check this blog for further updates.

By burlap submariner
Jun 25, 2010

coming to santa barbara this winter to surf and looking to climb in the san ysidro area and other surrounding crags. Is there relative cheap camping/blm land in the immediate area or close buy? Also where is the best good eats/beers nearby? Muchas gracias.

=Casey

By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Sep 9, 2010

An update from Bob Banks:

www.king-dino.com/rant.html

C'mon, people. Spread the wisdom.

By Jan Roestel
Sep 20, 2010

Bob and Andy are spot on. Post the link on the Brickyard and Lizard Mouth pages.

By Chris Morissette
From: Santa Barbara
Mar 14, 2014

I was up at Fire Crag yesterday and saw two baby rattlesnakes on the trail between the lower and the upper crag. There must be a den near there. They were extremely camouflaged so be careful.

By Rachel Jutkowitz
Apr 6, 2014

We have 2 rooms opening up May 1, and would love to share our house with fellow climbers.

We have two rooms available in a 3 bedroom, 1.5 bath, 2-story duplex in the Ellwood area of Goleta that will be available May 1. Rent for the smaller room is $745/month with a $695 deposit. The larger room is $765/month with a $715 deposit. Water, trash, and gardening is paid, however power, gas, and cable / internet are not and average about $80/mo. Unfortunately, rooms cannot be shared.

House has a private laundry room, fenced and gated yard, patio, and 1/2 a garage currently used for storage. Available rooms contain built-in closets and large sliding windows. House is approximately a 15 minute bike ride to UCSB and a 5-minute walk to the bus stop. Ellwood Mesa and the beach are about a 15 minute walk away. Parking is on the street but ample.

We are pet friendly, however, any pets must be well behaved and non-destructive. Of course, they must be well taken care of and cleaned up after (e.g., regular bathing, flea prevention, waste removal, etc.). Currently, there are no pets in the house. An additional $500 deposit will be required for any dog or cat. We are open to large dogs.

House includes:

  • Front load washer and dryer
  • Attic storage space
  • Wireless internet
  • Fully stocked and loaded kitchen
  • Propane gas grill and charcoal smoker
  • Patio and flower garden.
  • Central gas heating
  • Two refrigerators
  • Dishwasher
  • Gas fireplace
  • Walk-in pantry
  • Fully furnished and established

Looking for someone fun, courteous, clean, and social. Internationals, mature students, professionals, etc., are all welcome. No drugs or smoking.

We are a young professional couple sharing the master bedroom. We are not a party house, but we love cooking big meals, playing board games, playing music, rock climbing, and almost anything involving the outdoors.

If interested please contact Rachel at magni924@yahoo.com

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