Sanitarium 5.9
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, TR, 80 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.9 [details] |
| FA: | Carson & Jonas (January 1991) |
| Submitted By: | Matthew Fienup on Jul 22, 2009 |
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BETA PHOTO: Matt Grieger nears the top of Sanitarium, on the B...
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Description Awesome face and arete climbing on a striking pillar. The top-out is tricky and exposed. You must turn the corner to the right to keep the grade at 5.9.
Location Located on the far (climber's) left-side of the Buttress of Cracks. For a map, click here
The guidebook shows this route starting from a ledge high on the left (traversing in to the first bolt); however, it is also possible (and recommended) to start in a 5.7ish crack, directly below the arete.
Protection 3 bolts plus a slung knob keep the route sane. Small to medium gear is needed to build an anchor at the top. Long sligs are needed to top-rope the route (access the top by scrambling up the back of the buttress beginning from the far rights-side of the Buttress of Cracks).
By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Jul 22, 2009
| While Sanitarium ends after only one pitch, it is possible to continue to the top of the Dome by climbing Insanity (5.9), a striking layback to undercling feature, that begins right from the top of Sanitarium. After climbing the first pitch of Insanity, traverse left beneath the Great Arch and exit out the left side. |
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