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Dome Rock
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Anti-Jello Crack 
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YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, Sport, TR, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Carson & Jonas (January 1991)
Page Views: 1,347
Submitted By: Matthew Fienup on Jul 22, 2009
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BETA PHOTO: Matt Grieger nears the top of Sanitarium, on the B...


Awesome face and arete climbing on a striking pillar. The top-out is tricky and exposed. You must turn the corner to the right to keep the grade at 5.9.


Located on the far (climber's) left-side of the Buttress of Cracks. For a map, click here

The guidebook shows this route starting from a ledge high on the left (traversing in to the first bolt); however, it is also possible (and recommended) to start in a 5.7ish crack, directly below the arete.


3 bolts plus a slung knob keep the route sane. Small to medium gear is needed to build an anchor at the top. Long sligs are needed to top-rope the route (access the top by scrambling up the back of the buttress beginning from the far rights-side of the Buttress of Cracks).

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By Matthew Fienup
From: Ventura, CA
Jul 22, 2009

While Sanitarium ends after only one pitch, it is possible to continue to the top of the Dome by climbing Insanity (5.9), a striking layback to undercling feature, that begins right from the top of Sanitarium. After climbing the first pitch of Insanity, traverse left beneath the Great Arch and exit out the left side.

By G Frisby
From: Orange, CA
Jul 18, 2013

we TR'd this route on 7/7/13, and found it to be really fun climbing. there was one balancy-reachy-high-step move in the middle, from which I peeled, and then later de-coded. we started the route just down and right from where the guidebook shows the start; you can see the features for this start just to the right of the rope, and in the shade in Matthew's photo. I thought this start was on par with the difficulty level of the rest of the climb, and recommend doing the route this way when on TR.