I'm only adding this lame-ass route to fill out the Citadel section. I would not recommend this route to anyone, unless you enjoy obscure, and rotten terror fests. It is one of the only established "moderates"on the formation; however, this route climbs cracks up the left side of the Citadel. Start in a prominent, left-facing groove/corner, and climb great, hand and finger cracks to an ever-decomposing, right-facing, corner system. It culminates at a crispy roof. Pull out left onto insipient cracks and move into the wide crack on the right. Turn the final roof, scramble off to the north, and go home and call your Ma and tell her you love her.
|By Greg Sievers|
From: Estes Park, CO
Jun 11, 2011
Well, I'm not sure it's that bad, or worth whining about. The first pitch is pretty dam good. Yeah, it's got some lichen, but traffic will fix that. Run it out to the next alcove above the ledge with the tree, 150'. The second pitch does lead up into a roof with some scaley choss. It's only about a 15' section, but the protection is fair to good. Turn the roof to the left and onto some great edges, and zig-zag up 5.7 and right to dump the #4 Camalot with a double runner on it, then move left out around the roof 5.9. Hell, I'd give this route one star.