Irie Corner

It is quite easy to rap and access a big broken ledge system in the middle of the summit wall. The original bolts were accessed by traversing to the climbers’ right over some boulders to a nice flat ledge top dead center above the Irie Headwall. The bolts were at eye level on a vertical panel above the ledge.

A lot of classic climbs tackle the beautiful orange face below, dubbed the "Irie Headwall", which is about 200 feet high.

It’s possible that the top anchors have still not been replaced. They were likely chopped by bird fanatics, so a natural anchor might be needed - a 20’-30’ extender rope to sling a big block would be handy, The spacious ledge where a number of steep sport routes start is less than 200’ down, and there should still be an anchor at the end of the Irie Corner’s first pitch which enables making two 100’ raps with one rope.

I've climbed at this area a few times and its much easier to hike the main trial to the top of the summit crag and rap in/climb out. Thus the reason I've listed many of top pitches only.

Starting off the ledge and the only set of anchors (obvious) in the boulder pile at the base of the "Irie Headwall". Make a move to get established to the right of the starting anchors, then clip the first of 3 bolts up a slab leading to the base of the corner and an obvious crack (10a).

Pull up into the crack system and jam or undercling into the start of the corner where the difficulties begin. Continue to layback and stem up the featured holds in the corner until the good holds following this corner feature go away(11a).

You'll then spy a series of holds traversing right in the immaculate orange stone (crux - 11c?) follow just the right amount of features as you traverse on slopey pocket feet, and classic EP flat-top holds. At the far right end of the traverse there is a jug and a rest stance in the apex of the face (at this point you'll actually be at the same rest stance at the top of the crux on the neighboring route).

From here climb up and left back into the corner to a rest on jugs. Then negotiate the final roof crux, moving left out amazing in-cut holds to a stance over the roof (11b). Keep traversing a few final moves to an anchor above a small 1x3 ledge thats just out of sight to your left.

There are two options for a final pitch from this hanging belay, the left hander being a bit harder - 5.11-

Phew...this thing is classic action packed sport wanking and totally amazing.