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Sangalo Rocks

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Sangalo Rocks 


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Location: 0.5209, 34.6061 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 1,076
Administrator: Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Ian McHenry on Jan 23, 2011
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Sangalo Rocks from the end of the road.
Must walk through farmers' plots MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Prominent rocks on the top of a hill on the left as you drive from Bungoma to Mumias. Many tall, crackless faces for anyone willing to develop. Two quality 100 ft crack climbs.

Rock is granite and good quality. A horde of children and locals will inevitably gather around and applaud. No one ever climbs here.


Getting There 

From Bungoma, head south on Mumias road through town and past the matatu stage. When you reach the "Happy Moments" sign, turn left towards Sangalo. Continue for several kilometers until road merges with another road from the left. Keep right and continue a few more kilometers until you see a Sangalo Institute of Technology sign on your LEFT (ignore the earlier one on your right). Turn left at the sign toward the obvious tall rocks, down a small, bad dirt road until it ends. Follow the foot patch through people's houses, keeping right. Kids will likely show you the trail.


2 Total Routes


['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',1],['5.10',1],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Sangalo Rocks
The crux lie-back

O.A.F. (One and Fun) 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c  Africa : Kenya : Sangalo Rocks
This is the route around the corner to the right of Kidogo Kidogo, where the huge boulder splits. Crack leads up triangular flake until you get into the main crack. This widens until it cuts 45 degrees to the right and becomes a heinous off-width (if you're trying to protect it on lead) or a tenuous 5.9 lie-back (if on top rope).Note: Name is in honor of One Acre Fund, a great social enterprise I worked for based in nearby Bungoma. If you climb the route and want to help the local farmers, d...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Comments on Sangalo Rocks Add Comment
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By Ken Trout
From: Golden, CO
Mar 3, 2013

Parking at the local well.
Parking at the local well.

We went to Kisumu to visit our daughter, Samantha; not to climb. Without Ian McHenry's posting of Kidogo-Kidogo on Mountain Project I would not have brought a full rack and bolt kit to the Lake Victoria region.

Ian, thank you for the excellent beta!

PS, Knees, elbows, back, and chest too shredded for the crack around back!

By Ian M.
Jul 11, 2013

Awesome!! Thanks, Ken! Glad you added a second bolt! I never thought anyone would climb this again! Did you try the crack on the other side of the rock (in the narrow passage)? I should post that one, too, but we just did it on TR.