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All Locations >
Utah
> S Central Utah
> Capitol Reef
> Fruita Area
> Grand Wash
> Terrible Twos Wall
Sandy Dihedral
5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 2.3 from 3
votes
Routes in Terrible Twos Wall
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BFF T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Breeding Hips T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Capital Gains T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Capitol Flake T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Left and Right Practice Cracks T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Necco Wafer, The TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Pussy Bolt T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Sandy Dihedral T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Sharon's crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Soapstone Dihedral T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Take Capitol T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Terrible Two's T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Thinner T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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| Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 887 total · 4/month |
| Shared By: | ben brownell on Nov 25, 2006 |
| Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Access Issue: Permit Required
Details
As of 2020, climbing in Capitol Reef requires a permit: mountainproject.com/forum/t…
Access
From the parking lot at the Grand Wash trailhead, walk northwest about 120 feet to the base of the route. It is an obvious finger crack in a right facing, left-leaning corner.
Description
Except for the first and last 10 feet (both 5.easy), the climb is in fact quite clean, solid and fun. Consistent fingers, with a few hand-sized pods. A mix of jamming, laybacking and some face holds down low, then a nice .9-ish layback to anchors. Drilled angle, knot-choc and a nut with good webbing and rings. Pull your rope with care, as the crack will try and gobble it.
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