View of this cliff from the approach trail, easies...
Sport area to the max. Lots of sacrificial climbs in this area. Almost every climb in this area should be mixed or trad, as there is sweet gear here.
However, There are a great many classic routs here including 5.5 My Ass, Assman, Kinestetica, Geisha Girl, and many more that I haven't yet climbed I'm sure.
The parking area and access route have changed. Park at a small area just past Ames Cemetary on the left of the road. Follow the power line cut and take the marked cut off to the left into the woods after the second hill. Once in the woods, the trail becomes and old double track. Follow this a few hundred feet (passing obvious trails on the left and right) until it turns into a foot path, veer to the right at a Y, and follow this downhill (sometimes steeply downhill) and cross the drainage to the base of the crag (on your left as you face the river far below). There is no downclimbing or ladders on the access.
Note the access may change at any time. This access path was good as of December 2007. Check newriverclimbing.net
for most recent updates.
Thanks Tim Schafstall
for your contribution.
Weather station 1.8 miles from here
34 Total Routes
['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',13],['2 Stars',17],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
Browse More Classics in Sandstonia
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Sandstonia:
Shady Lady 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Geisha Girl 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport, 1 pitch, 95'
Zeitgeist 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport, 85'
G-String 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
ISO 9000 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Barb Wire 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport, 80'
Featured Route For Sandstonia
Geisha Girl 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c WV
: The New River Gorge
: ... : Sandstonia
OK, so the opening crack takes gear (as do other places on the route), but that's not the local ethic, so just enjoy the nice moves. Even a hard core traddie like me enjoyed this one.Climb the obvious wide crack (5.7), then veer left to a small bulge and funky move (crux). Up the nice face, then through it on huge jugs to the anchors....[more] Browse More Classics in WV
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