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Sandstonia

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
5.5 My Ass S 
Assman S 
Badass Tattoo S 
Barb Wire S 
Bass Ackwards S 
Bikini Line S 
Bobby D's Bunny S 
Bobby Prize S 
Butterfly Flake S 
Celtic Sun S,TR 
Centennial S 
Clean Shaved S 
Crescendo S 
Decameron, The S 
G-String S 
Geisha Girl S 
Good Book, The S 
Hardcore Female Rash S 
Hepatitis C S 
ISO 9000 S 
Jaws of Life S 
Kinestetica S,TR 
Lieback and Enjoy It S 
Lord of the Jungle T 
Mike Tyson's Face S 
Mrs. Field's Follies S 
One Repetition Max S 
Pay It Forward S 
Plumber's Crack T,S 
Pure Power S 
Shady Lady S 
Weisenheimer Brainstorm S 
Witches of Bangor S 
Zeitgeist S 

Sandstonia 


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Location: 38.1, -81.0971 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 28,080
Administrators: Chris Whisenhunt, Ladd Raine, Shawn Heath, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Ladd Raine on Sep 5, 2006
Forecast:
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View of this cliff from the approach trail, easies...

Description 

Sport area to the max. Lots of sacrificial climbs in this area. Almost every climb in this area should be mixed or trad, as there is sweet gear here.

However, There are a great many classic routs here including 5.5 My Ass, Assman, Kinestetica, Geisha Girl, and many more that I haven't yet climbed I'm sure.


Getting There 

The parking area and access route have changed. Park at a small area just past Ames Cemetary on the left of the road. Follow the power line cut and take the marked cut off to the left into the woods after the second hill. Once in the woods, the trail becomes and old double track. Follow this a few hundred feet (passing obvious trails on the left and right) until it turns into a foot path, veer to the right at a Y, and follow this downhill (sometimes steeply downhill) and cross the drainage to the base of the crag (on your left as you face the river far below). There is no downclimbing or ladders on the access.

Note the access may change at any time. This access path was good as of December 2007. Check www.newriverclimbing.net for most recent updates.

Thanks Tim Schafstall for your contribution.


Climbing Season


34 Total Routes


['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',14],['2 Stars',15],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',3],['5.7',2],['5.8',3],['5.9',3],['5.10',11],['5.11',8],['5.12',3],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Sandstonia:
Bobby D's Bunny   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Butterfly Flake   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   
Shady Lady   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Geisha Girl   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 95'   
Mrs. Field's Follies   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 95'   
Crescendo   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 60'   
Zeitgeist   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 85'   
The Good Book   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Badass Tattoo   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport   
Decameron, The   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
Kinestetica   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 100'   
Witches of Bangor   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Lieback and Enjoy It   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 60'   
Weisenheimer Brainstorm   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 85'   
Jaws of Life   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
G-String   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
ISO 9000   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   
Mike Tyson's Face   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Browse More Classics in Sandstonia

Featured Route For Sandstonia
G-String goes out the right side of the roof seen above.

G-String 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c  WV : The New River Gorge : ... : Sandstonia
Some hard sequences with some good rests in between. Climb Bikini Line to the 4th bolt then move right around/over and overlap. Balance up a clean face and then through fun and easier steep moves above to the anchor....[more]   Browse More Classics in WV

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By Mark Cushman
From: Cumming, GA
Apr 9, 2008

Partial topo is available as an addendum to Eric Horst's Bubba City guide :

www.trainingforclimbing.com/BubbaCity/pages/topos.htm

This guide has a topo of Sandstonia.