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Unsorted Routes:

Sandstone Violence 

Hueco: V8 Font: 7B

   
Type:  Boulder
Consensus:  Hueco: V8 Font: 7B [details]
FA: Jason Huston
Page Views: 7,164
Submitted By: JJ Schlick on Oct 27, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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Reaching for the right hand crimp

Description 

In many ways THE line on the backbone. Start out in the middle of the block on a good sidepull. Work straight up past hard holds and an almost ghostlike crimp up high to the horizontal. Go up through a niche at the top. A very tall, proud line. #14 JJ's old topo.

Location 

Backbone

Protection 

-


Photos of Sandstone Violence Slideshow Add Photo
Sticking the move to the jug
Sticking the move to the jug
Dobbe with some good September temps.
Dobbe with some good September temps.
Dobbe getting ready to move to the right crimp
Dobbe getting ready to move to the right crimp
Problem by Erosion, beta by Huston, photo by Shantan.  Spring 08.
Problem by Erosion, beta by Huston, photo by Shant...
That crimp moved just a little farther away this spring.  The old one trick pony on SV, April '10.  Photo Travis Melin.
That crimp moved just a little farther away this s...
Stuck.  Photo Travis Melin.  April '10.  Such a good problem.
Stuck. Photo Travis Melin. April '10. Such a go...
He's a little short yet to pull off the first moves to the double pinch but it's never too soon to start trying.  Photo by Kelly.
He's a little short yet to pull off the first move...
Ben pulling off the high foot on SV.  Photo by Kelly.  July 08.
Ben pulling off the high foot on SV. Photo by Kel...
Establishing myself on the two pinches.
Establishing myself on the two pinches.
Gabe on his first try, looking strong.
Gabe on his first try, looking strong.
RV almost sticking SV.
RV almost sticking SV.
A lousy shot but it gives you the scale of things.
A lousy shot but it gives you the scale of things....
Kelsen squeezing hard.
Kelsen squeezing hard.
Dobbe squeezing the pinches.  He came so close to sending.
Dobbe squeezing the pinches. He came so close to ...
The Administrator checking out the moves
The Administrator checking out the moves
Relativity Block.  Project goes right up the center.
BETA PHOTO: Relativity Block. Project goes right up the cente...
Travis on the dual pinches.  Squeeze!!!
Travis on the dual pinches. Squeeze!!!
Travis moving right onto the small crimp and into the crux...
Travis moving right onto the small crimp and into ...
Dobbe in June '08 on SV. It was about 80F and pretty humid; nobody was getting up that face that day...
Dobbe in June '08 on SV. It was about 80F and pret...
Eggbert, on his send.
Eggbert, on his send.

Comments on Sandstone Violence Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 14, 2014
By SteveSchultz
Nov 6, 2006

we're guessing it'll go in the v8/9 range
By TravisMelin
From: Roanoke, VA La Crosse, WI
Jun 9, 2007
rating: V8 7B

any beta for someone working the problem jason? Right now I am going with the "just pull harder" theory
By TravisMelin
From: Roanoke, VA La Crosse, WI
Jun 17, 2007
rating: V8 7B

I found the hold today that you spoke of....still not sure what to do. I was trying double pinches, bring feet up to the left nub and better hold on the right....and then....ooof...advice?
By TravisMelin
From: Roanoke, VA La Crosse, WI
Jul 5, 2007
rating: V8 7B

Thanks for the beta. Its going down.
By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Aug 6, 2008
rating: V8 7B

I would just like to say that I love this problem. The first time I ever bouldered at the Dodge this caught my attention. It wouldn't matter if it was V12, I would still throw myself at it. Everytime I get on it I come closer and closer to unlocking the moves. Everything has to be just right. Anyway, great send by Jason, and a great Wisconsin classic.
By nicros fivten
Aug 23, 2008

And what is the crux of Sandstone Violence? is it grabbing the last crimp (after the sharp left hand). I climbed to the point of getting my fingers on the high right hand but slipping off (horrible conditions i.e. rain, heat, skin.) is the next move the crux? random questions I know, and maybe not the place but I was just wondering. And sense I am asking, how come that boulder problem (S.V.) has seen so few ascents? Not saying that it is not hard, or that people are not trying it, but I am wondering because I was blown away by it's perfectness (is that a word?)
-perfect start
-perfect holds
-perfect rock
-perfect height
-perfect moves

and drove 5 hours from Minnesota just to try the problem (after seeing it on this site). I am super bummed that I could not stay to finish it, but I had to drive back to MN in order to fly back to California (where I am now living),

I have digressed..
my rant is intended to tell all of the doubters, go.. go and try this boulder problem (and others) it is one of the best in the midwest.

I have already made plans to come back.
By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Aug 23, 2008
rating: V8 7B

"And what is the crux of Sandstone Violence?"

The last move to the horzontal break (after establishing on the right crimp, the next move). Once you get the sharp left hand, you have time, as you know it's the best hold on the problem. But the last right crimp is very temperature and humidity dependent. 50F and no humidity is about perfect. 80F is bad. I agree it's perfect. By the way, why do you assume few ascents? Just wondering, I really have no idea.
By nicros fivten
Aug 24, 2008

I was told (by a local) that the problem had seen only 3. Is this not true? maybe I miss understood,
By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Aug 24, 2008
rating: V8 7B

No idea. I'm pretty new to the area. I went to Boulders Gym (Madison) a bunch this past winter and there seemed to be a lot of strong dudes there, so if it's only seen 3, that would seem unusual, I agree. PM me when you come back if you wish, I love it at the Dodge.
By SteveSchultz
Aug 24, 2008

Hey guys,

Just some input from myself. yes the problem is perfect. it's hands down the classic line at dodge.

Nicros/Five ten, is this nic? if so, we met back at MORE. As far as i know the problem has only seen 1 ascent so far, jason's. at least none others that I've heard of. I worked it for a matter of days and figured out what I thought the best beta was and got to the last move but couldnt put it together before i got smoked by a block jason accidentally pulled off. i sort of lost interest for a while after that. it's the only send i've heard of though. that said, i've been out of the loop for the most part this year but am planning on coming back this fall to finish it up. i'm guessing that this bloc will get a bunch of sends this fall.

let me know when you are back in town and we'll head up there.

steve
By SteveSchultz
Aug 24, 2008

oh, and the crux is definitely going to the break. you should have no problem come fall.
By nicros fivten
Aug 24, 2008

yes this is nic... I am going to try and come back in october around the 18th? i am going to stop in and lay siege to this boulder (good thing the camping is close).
By sweatpants
From: Broomfield, CO
Aug 24, 2008

Hey steve! what up bro. little fyi for everyone Chris that frequents this site has also sent S.V. but besides that I think they could be the only 2.
weeerrrddd,
sweaty
By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Aug 25, 2008
rating: V8 7B

Yup. 4 days of effort spanning 9 months. Had no idea it was possibly the second ascent, just looked like a sweet line that needed some attention.
By nicros fivten
Oct 18, 2008

SO pumped to do this, BOOSH!
we did shoot some video, borntobreathe.blogspot.com/200...
I used a bit of different beta.. the high heel (or toe) at the end would have worked but I thought my beta at the end (just jump) worked better for me but could be harder? I think Sandstone Violence is solid at the grade of v8 AND (bold comment to follow) is one of, if not the BEST problems of it's grade in the Midwest (MN,WI,SD,ND,IA,).
By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Nov 18, 2008
rating: V8 7B

So stoked on this problem, one of the best in the park! Finally sent today, the conditions were perfect.
By sweatpants
From: Broomfield, CO
Nov 18, 2008

Yo man congrats remo!!! long time coming for both problems and im psyched for ya. word up
By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Nov 23, 2008
rating: V8 7B

Today was another great day for friction addicts, the temps made the rock feel excellent. Dobbe came inches from finishing this thing off, next time- so stoked!
By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
Nov 25, 2008

Good job Remo! I'll be there this upcoming Saturday to give it a go.
By Brian Runnells
Nov 27, 2008
rating: V8 7B

I highly recommend using the beta that Nic uses in the above linked video. The small right foot is key for the last move.
By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Nov 27, 2008
rating: V8 7B

Congrats Remo and Brian! Though I would stick with the original heel-hook beta myself...
By Langlois
From: NYC
Nov 27, 2008

Nice work remo
By Brian Runnells
Nov 30, 2008
rating: V8 7B

To answer a question above, in my opinion the crux is moving off the right hand double pinch hold to the sharp left hand crimp. The last move is not that hard once you commit to it.
By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
Dec 1, 2008

I worked this on Saturday with Jay Knower, Brian Runnels, Paul Campbell and Chris treggE. I got to watch Brian send it twice! I made some good progress on it. I can establish on the crimps and bring my left foot up for just a second before I pop off. I will be working the finger ring and head back next weekend for another go.
By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Mar 17, 2009
rating: V8 7B

Rumor is that Kelsen broke the key right foot for the final throw to the break. Damn Kelsen, now we all have to do it the heal hook way! Oh well, it is sandstone.
By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Mar 17, 2009
rating: V8 7B

I was kinda hoping someone who had sent and was motivated would try to flip flop on the beta to see which way was harder. Oh well.

EDIT: Oh yeah, on second thought, any of you foot chippers can still try heel hooking and let us know. I'm talking to you, Narc.
By Tradoholic
Mar 17, 2009

Damn it Kelsen! I was so close! To be fair I think that footchip was weak to begin with. I'm surprised Steve Schultz didn't break it first!
BUT still, see Dobbe's post on the main page, do NOT climb when it's wet!!!
By SteveSchultz
Mar 18, 2009

Sounds like, from talking to RV and Kelsen, that the chip is still there and still usable. Even if that thing breaks off all the way it's not going to change the grade. Jason did the FA with the left heel and the grade is firm that way.

Am I a notorious hold breaker??? I had no idea. Break one hand hold that doesn't change anything and my name goes to hell....

Also, sounded like basically everything was dry up there. That foot would have broken eventually I'm sure. In fact there are a couple of holds on that problem that could still break. Let's not freak out people.
By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Mar 26, 2009
rating: V8 7B

Foot chip is still there and fully functional. I am ready for the lynch mob, but IMHO the heel hook method is harder. I did the "just jump Nic" method today, only I went up to break with right hand instead of left and it felt pretty reasonable. The jump method is perhaps more committing but the move felt easier. I wouldn't know V8 if it bit me in the ass, but heel hook felt harder. An awesome problem and I simply love it every time I pad it, chalk up, take a deep breath, and step up. Simply no other problem like it. Thanks to the Milwaukee crew for the extra pads.
By nicros fivten
Mar 27, 2009

I agree with the last bit.. Jumping= way easier than heal hook.

I have climbed a few 8's and this (for me) was as hard as the rest but I do believe the conditions have a huge role in the difficulty of this problem.

both days I tried it it was moist and warm.... the first day I tried it holding the crimp after the pinches felt impossible. If someone said v7 I would argue that "Mikes Left"(V7+) at Taylors Falls feels a bit easier (very similar boulder problems).

so, here is how it works out.

Mikes Left=V7 (on the hard end)
Sandstone Violence= V8 (low end?)
By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Mar 27, 2009
rating: V8 7B

Yeah I could see the heel being harder for sure, but Nic is right the conditions for this thing are key to sending(mid summer=not good). I have sent a few V8's out west and this feels just as hard or harder. People say that Wisconsin is sandbagged, but because of the awesome feedback we all give I think the Dodge is solid for the grades.
By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
May 3, 2009
rating: V8 7B

Nice work Travis!!!
By TravisMelin
From: Roanoke, VA La Crosse, WI
May 3, 2009
rating: V8 7B

YES! Good beta chris. That ankle was not sprained in vain!
By VNESS
May 3, 2009

Travis Melin sent the bejesus out of this route today......it was breathe-taking
By Remo
From: Madison, WI
May 4, 2009
rating: V8 7B

Yeah Trav!
By NorMN
May 5, 2009

Nice job Travis, only two tries! Impressive. Wish I could have ticked it that day too. Didn't want to dilute your glory though!
By Langlois
From: NYC
Nov 29, 2009

Dobbe sent today! Also he repeated battle of the bulge, highly excecuted and strong men. Remo made a great repeat of SV on his first go. Good day
By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Nov 29, 2009
rating: V8 7B

The Backbone Trifecta plus SMAC! Wow Dobbe.
By sweatpants
From: Broomfield, CO
Nov 29, 2009

Well Done Dobbe! Sounds like it was a great day.
By Dobbe
Nov 29, 2009

Super pumped to final get this today! It was long over due. I have been trying this with out any regularity for two seasons. Such a great problem.
By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Nov 30, 2009
rating: V8 7B

Yeah Dobbe! The guy had a great day!
By Langlois
From: NYC
Dec 3, 2009


Video:smellen
By sweatpants
From: Broomfield, CO
Dec 3, 2009

I love how you can hear Remo getting increasingly closer with each cheer he makes and move up Dobbe makes.

P.S. Someone should start making a laptop that is on its side so i dont have to keep manually spinning. In fact i may invent a laptop that has a handy button I can press that will just spin the screen for me. Genius. I will make millions.
By Dobbe
Dec 3, 2009

I think the side view is slimming. Thanks for making me look my best Ryan.
By sweatpants
From: Broomfield, CO
Dec 3, 2009

Imagine if you were sporting some vertical stripes... Talk about slender and sexy.
By Langlois
From: NYC
Dec 4, 2009

When I figure out how to rotate the video I'll edit some stripes in. It's a full time job making Dobbe look that good
By Brian Runnells
Jun 3, 2013
rating: V8 7B

Heard that the left crimp you move to from the initial pinches might be gone. Haven't seen it myself nor do I remember what else was there to use, but it seems like the problem would be much harder without that hold. It apparently still goes however...
By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Jun 3, 2013
rating: V8 7B

Hemberger was probably out there and busted it off.
By SteveSchultz
Jun 3, 2013

You're probably right Fat Pants.
By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Jun 3, 2013
rating: V8 7B

Hey now Mr. Schultz, I'm pretty sure Skyler broke that hold on Fat Pants.
By SteveSchultz
Jun 4, 2013

Hahaha! He probably gave the hold to Katie too, didn't he??
By Hemberger
From: Madison, Wisconsin
Jun 4, 2013

I have done nothing of the sort. Too busy mountain biking - breaking trees when I hit them, instead. And breaking my body...
By Brian Runnells
Jun 7, 2013
rating: V8 7B

False alarm. The hold is still there and the problem is still very doable.
By Ian CB
Oct 14, 2014

This is one of the best 8's Wisconsin, and a solid one at that in my opinion. Props to Huston for the FA of this beauty.