Sandinista 5.11b PG13
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| Type: | Trad, 2 pitches, 300 feet, Grade II |
| Consensus: | 5.11b [details] |
| FA: | Dave Dunblazer, Kathy ? Maybe others too. |
| Season: | Summer with morning shade |
| Submitted By: | Ken Trout on Jun 29, 2009 |
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BETA PHOTO: Sandinista on Acid Rock.
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Description This was Dave's masterpiece of lead drilling. See the photo and topo for beta. It was the hardest face climb on the Sheep Rock Domes at the time it was put up.
Here's why the name. Dave was a Vietnam veteran who didn't like it when certain Americans were illegally supplying the Contras. Right after the Sandinista Revolution, he went down to Nicaragua, uninvited, to volunteer with the new government. He told me there were still many celebratory beach parties happening and that everyone was dancing to Michael Jackson. Since good ol' USA didn't recognize the new Nicaraguan government, Dave thought it pretty darn cool that Michael was our defacto ambassador.
Dave also made cool climbing gear. I still use the gear sling he made in 1984.
Protection This was put up so it could be done with just the bolts. It was drilled on lead.
BETA PHOTO: Sandinista.
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BETA PHOTO: Dan Gabbay on P1.
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By Will McDonald
Jul 12, 2009
| How are the bolts on pitch two of this route? And there is an unlisted route between Sandinista and Charlie Don't Surf?
From the belay at the end of the first pitch, I found two lines of bolts: old ones on the left, new ones on the right. I climbed the right line (which I think had a first pitch below me between Sandinista and Charlie), and I wasn't sure whether I was on Sandinista or some route that isn't in the books. The line up the new bolts was very thin and felt at least .11b, probably PG-13 as well. |
By rob bauer
From: Golden, CO
Nov 3, 2009
| I had the exact same experience a few yrs earlier and asked about in on the Acid Rock pg. (nobody clarified since then) I agreed with your assessment of the grade with the same questions about the old bolts to the left. This is the line just left of Charlie Don't Surf and matches Sandinista topo/photo Ken Trout submitted.
Edit 5/26/12. It may be getting harder on P2. |
By slim
Nov 4, 2009
rating: 5.11b PG13
| I've done the right line, you kind of stem up a pair of water runnels for a bit. I think it is part of the route 'route-to-top' or something like that. My notes say 5.9- , it's quite a bit easier than Sandanista. Really fun pitch. |
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