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 ADVANCED
Acid Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Charley Don't Surf T 
Divine Ms M., The T,S 
Four Eyes T 
Sandinista T 
Scary Monsters T 
Unknown between Divine Miss M & Erotic Plants S 

Sandinista 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 300', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Dave Dunblazer, Kathy ? Maybe others too.
Season: Summer with morning shade
Page Views: 594
Submitted By: Ken Trout on Jun 29, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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BETA PHOTO: Sandinista on Acid Rock.

Description 

This was Dave's masterpiece of lead drilling. See the photo and topo for beta. It was the hardest face climb on the Sheep Rock Domes at the time it was put up.

Here's why the name. Dave was a Vietnam veteran who didn't like it when certain Americans were illegally supplying the Contras. Right after the Sandinista Revolution, he went down to Nicaragua, uninvited, to volunteer with the new government. He told me there were still many celebratory beach parties happening and that everyone was dancing to Michael Jackson. Since good ol' USA didn't recognize the new Nicaraguan government, Dave thought it pretty darn cool that Michael was our defacto ambassador.

Dave also made cool climbing gear. I still use the gear sling he made in 1984.


Protection 

This was put up so it could be done with just the bolts. It was drilled on lead.



Photos of Sandinista Slideshow Add Photo
Sandinista.
BETA PHOTO: Sandinista.
Dan Gabbay on P1.
BETA PHOTO: Dan Gabbay on P1.
Comments on Sandinista Add Comment
Show which comments
By WMcD
Jul 12, 2009

How are the bolts on pitch two of this route? And there is an unlisted route between Sandinista and Charlie Don't Surf?

From the belay at the end of the first pitch, I found two lines of bolts: old ones on the left, new ones on the right. I climbed the right line (which I think had a first pitch below me between Sandinista and Charlie), and I wasn't sure whether I was on Sandinista or some route that isn't in the books. The line up the new bolts was very thin and felt at least .11b, probably PG-13 as well.

By rob bauer
From: Golden, CO
Nov 3, 2009

I had the exact same experience a few yrs earlier and asked about in on the Acid Rock pg. (nobody clarified since then) I agreed with your assessment of the grade with the same questions about the old bolts to the left. This is the line just left of Charlie Don't Surf and matches Sandinista topo/photo Ken Trout submitted.

Edit 5/26/12. It may be getting harder on P2.

By slim
Administrator
Nov 4, 2009
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13

I've done the right line, you kind of stem up a pair of water runnels for a bit. I think it is part of the route 'route-to-top' or something like that. My notes say 5.9- , it's quite a bit easier than Sandanista. Really fun pitch.

By flynn
Aug 11, 2013

Yeah, Slim, that water-runnel-stemming thing is called Divine Ms. M. Dave Kozak had a hand in its installation; I don't remember anything else about its history. 9- seems about right, and I remember that it was fun.