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Sandia Mountains

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Chimney Canyon 
Domingo Baca Canyon, Lower 
Echo Canyon 
Hail Peak 
Juan Tabo Canyon 
La Cueva Canyon, Lower 
La Cueva Canyon, Upper 
Pinnacle Valley 
Pino Wall & Jawbone 
Stuck Nut Crag 
TV Station, The 
TWA Canyon 
Rest Day:
Nearby Mountain Bike Rides

Coyote/Chamisoso Loop
A nice loop on Cedro Peak with some great singletrack through piƱon forest. Near Tijeras village, NM
Manzano Monster Loop
A tour of the trail networks in the Northern Manzano Mountains. Near Tijeras village, NM
Coyote Trail (Trail 5619)
Sweet smooth singletrack with a few rocky climbs and access to 5-corners area. Near Tijeras village, NM
Gear Grinder
An up-and-down, rough and technical singletrack. Near Ponderosa Pine, NM
FOO loop
A narrow trail that contours along the hillsides. Near Albuquerque, NM
South Foothills
A round trip of the Southern Foothills singletrack. Near Tijeras village, NM
From MP's sister site: MTB Project

Sandia Mountains  


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 10,678'
Location: 35.2106, -106.45 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 696,629
Administrators: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB, Marta Reece, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Anthony Stout on Jan 20, 2006
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You & This Area
Best routes for YOU in this area
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La Luz trail with ice cyrstals on camera lense

Description 

Because of the approaches to the climbing areas here, you will typically find solitude while climbing in the Sandias. Due to high elevation and nature of these mountains, conditions can vary. While one can climb at any time of the year, the best time seems to be between May through October. West and Southwest facing walls, such as Muralla Grande, can be warm and dry even on winter days. Watch for thunderstorms during the summer months.

Getting There 

The majority of the climbs are accessed from the Sandia Crest, though some are approached from the foothills of Albuquerque (these directions will be give in the appropriate sections):

- Starting from Albuquerque, take I-40 east through Tijeras Canyon, exiting on the Tijeras exit (exit 175).
- North on highway 14 for 6.8 miles
- Turn left on NM 536 (follow signs to Sandia Mountain Ski area), and follow this road for about 14 miles, past the ski area, and finally to the Sandia Crest.

Getting to the different climbing areas:

Approach times and difficulties vary depending on where you are going. Directions will be given in the appropriate sections.

WARNING: Approaches can be DIFFICULT, as in both strenuous and difficult to find. It's not difficult to get lost in this area. Should anyone following directions posted on Mountain Project end up lost, feedback on the directions in order to make them more accurate is appreciated.

Resources: 

- Sandia Rock by Mick Schein (2013, Sharp End Publishing)
- Rock Climbing New Mexico by Dennis R. Jackson (2006, Falcon Press)
- Hikers and Climbers Guide to the Sandias by Mike Hill (1993, Coyote Books)

Climbing Season



Weather station 0.4 miles from here

260 Total Routes

['4 Stars',23],['3 Stars',112],['2 Stars',97],['1 Star',27],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',23],['5.7',29],['5.8',39],['5.9',42],['5.10',54],['5.11',41],['5.12',20],['5.13',4],['>=5.14',1],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',2],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',1],['V8-9',1],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',2],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Sandia Mountains:
Knife Edge   Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c     Trad, Alpine, 900'   Juan Tabo Canyon : Shield
Northwest Ridge   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 1000'   La Cueva Canyon, Upper : The Thumb
The Second Coming   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches   Chimney Canyon : Muralla Grande
Southwest Ridge   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13     Trad, Alpine, 10 pitches, 1300'   Juan Tabo Canyon : The Needle
Estrellita   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 110'   La Cueva Canyon, Upper : Estrellita
Bush Shark Spire   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, Alpine, 2 pitches, 200'   Echo Canyon : Bush Shark Area
Aviary Ort Overhangs   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches   La Cueva Canyon, Upper : The Thumb
Warpy Moople   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R     Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches, 800'   Chimney Canyon : Muralla Grande
Excitable Boys   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches, 700'   Chimney Canyon : Muralla Grande
Yucca Flower Tower   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches   Echo Canyon : Yucca Flower Tower
Rawhide   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, Alpine, 2 pitches, 300'   Echo Canyon : Yucca Flower Tower
Mountain Momma   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches   La Cueva Canyon, Upper : Torreon
Great Escape   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 100'   Echo Canyon : Yucca Flower Tower
Little Yellow Jacket   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, 580'   Chimney Canyon : Muralla Grande
Dust to Dust   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, 400'   Pino Wall & Jawbone : Pino Wall
Purple Haze    5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c A4+ R     Trad, Aid, Alpine, 10 pitches, 1000'   Juan Tabo Canyon : Shield
Wizard of Air   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches, 600'   La Cueva Canyon, Upper : Torreon
Autumn Ivy   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 100'   Chimney Canyon : Clandestine Wall
Cat Daddy   5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c     Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 90'   Chimney Canyon : Clandestine Wall
Event Horizon   5.14- 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a     Sport, Alpine, 1 pitch, 95'   Chimney Canyon : Clandestine Wall
Browse More Classics in Sandia Mountains

Featured Route For Sandia Mountains
Daisy Topo

Daisy 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c PG13  NM : Sandia Mountains : ... : La Vista
Route Information3 pitch variation of raven Steals The Sun. Daisy was named in honor of a furry friend who passed. Daisy scoped the lines on La Vista with me before Ravens was completed. A fake flower somehow appeared on my rope stack during the FA. It just so happened to be a white daisy. I figured my old pal was thinking about me. I planted the plastic daisy in a crack and thought of her. So after special consideration I think it would be great to name this route Daisy in memory of my ...[more]   Browse More Classics in NM

Photos of Sandia Mountains Slideshow Add Photo
Tyrolean traverse "Cake and the Candle"
Tyrolean traverse "Cake and the Candle"
Looking out to Albuquerque from The Sandias on a beautiful fall like summer day.
Looking out to Albuquerque from The Sandias on a b...
Sandia Mountains from the Foothills.
Sandia Mountains from the Foothills.
Upper La Cueva Canyon on 28 April 2007
BETA PHOTO: Upper La Cueva Canyon on 28 April 2007
Old La Luz trail after a storm
Old La Luz trail after a storm
Sunset in the Sandias
Sunset in the Sandias
The Sentinel and The Thumb, taken just before dropping into Chimney Canyon.
The Sentinel and The Thumb, taken just before drop...
The Castle formation north of Muralla Grande
The Castle formation north of Muralla Grande

Comments on Sandia Mountains Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Feb 28, 2014
By Karl Kiser
Apr 29, 2006
One might want to check out the download from Sharp End Publishing. It shows the introduction to Mick Schein's "Sandia Rock" (2003)

www.sharpendbooks.com/pdfs/sandia.pdf
By James Garrett
Jan 28, 2007
I just recently got a copy of the Jackon Guide to New Mexico Climbing. I have climbed Tooth Or Consequences in the Organs (really enjoyed it!), but I am embarrassed to say I have never been to the Sandias...they look amazing. Long Adventure routes on quality rock and generally well protected with year round access and weather...or is that a neophyte's misconception? I'd love to go there, but first get the skinny from locals. It seems odd that NM doesn't seem to get the publicity that Utah or Colorado climbs do for "intermountain west", but, anyway.... are the bolts on the long routes being replaced by new and improved 21st century quality beef? Specifically, I am keen to do some of the long routes on the Shield.
thanks....
By Monomaniac
Administrator
From: Morrison, CO
Jan 30, 2007
"quality rock and generally well protected "

That's hilarious! You made my day!
By Monomaniac
Administrator
From: Morrison, CO
Apr 19, 2007
Anyone made the journey to the Windward Wall? looks sweet in the guidebook, but perhaps a bit difficult to find.

How about the Watchtower?
By Chuck McQuade
From: Golden, CO
Apr 20, 2007
The approach for science friction/windward walls aren't too bad. Approach via the crest, from the La Luz junction (Echo canyon meets upper La Cueva canyon) hike/scramble west sticking to the ridge line. There is a rap station (somewhat hidden) facing SW. Thus these crags get pretty good sun-exposure. If you pass the rap station no worries you cant continue too much further the line ends. The first rap gets you to the base of the upper tier crag. A second station after a scramble north gets you to the base of the lower tier.
By Steven VanSickle
From: Ouray, Co
Oct 8, 2007
What does a Sandia rack consist of?
By Anthony Stout
Administrator
From: Albuquerque, NM
Oct 8, 2007
My standard rack for anything in the Sandia's typically consists of doubles (camalots) from 0.3 to #2 with one #3, a few smaller cams (C3s), a full set of nuts, and 10 slings. Slings are important because so many routes wander, though you could probably get away with less than ten on most routes with some quick draws (I don't have to extend all of them but I do end up slinging most of my pieces). If the route description ever recommends bringing any pieces larger, I typically do.

Hope that is helpful.
By Steven VanSickle
From: Ouray, Co
Dec 4, 2007
Does anyone have beta for a supposed tyrolean traverse. Between the cake and the candle?
By Charles Vernon
From: Tucson, AZ
Feb 22, 2008
Can anyone comment on a) current snow conditions and b) the temperatures to expect up on the rocks, if Albuquerque is forecast for low 60s and sunny (as later next week)? Specific routes I am considering are the Thumb and Needle ridge climbs, and Procrastination on the Shield. Thanks!
By Monomaniac
Administrator
From: Morrison, CO
Feb 22, 2008
I haven't been up there this season, but I can see a lot of snow up there from my house. In fact, we got another ~1/2 an inch Wednesday night (at my house). I would guess the approach to any of those 3 routes would be pretty heinous, but the rock would be relatively snow free.
By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Aug 13, 2008
An older but enjoyable read about the Sandias by local climber Josh Smith is online at Climbing
By Steven VanSickle
From: Ouray, Co
Oct 24, 2008
Does anyone know of any chimney pitches?
By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Oct 24, 2008
The only thing I've been on in the Sandias that is close is P6 on Excitable Boys and it really isn't much at all. Long way to go for it. Granted, I haven't climbed much in the Sandias and generally avoid OW and chimneys.
If you're looking for some serious grunting in Northern NM, Airbus would likely be right up your alley. :-)
By Steven VanSickle
From: Ouray, Co
Oct 26, 2008
Mike Roybal... what do you think the aid on the south face of the chimney goes at? I hiked up to the base and thought it looked really really thin. Any idea? Also does anyone know what the brand new bolt about a pitch up the west face of the chimney is for, tried to lead past it but it was caked in lichen.
By John Kear
From: Albuquerque, NM
Nov 4, 2008
In answer to Steve's inquiry about the new bolt on the west face of the Chimney; The route is called Smoke on the Horizon II 5.11b. I climbed the route for the first time in 02 or 03 without the bolt and didn't climb it clean then. I went back with Allen Aiken in the summer of 04 and put in the bolt and tried to clean the route up a little but it struck me as too scruffy to become something many people would want to do, but it has been freed cleanly. I never got around to telling many people about it or posting it. If some one put in some anchors at the summit and rapped in and cleaned the line it would turn out to be a decent 2-3 pitch route on the Chimney. I just haven't gotten back to it as yet.
By Clark Gray
Dec 9, 2008
Steve; As for the South face of the chimney the aid consisted of RURPS, tied off knife blades an very small wired chocks and the old copper mashies. above the overhang it goes all free (A3, A4)

As for chimney routes hoys Chimney on the west side of the needle is about the longest chimney route in the Sandias. It ends up on the Southwest ridge right before you get to the fifth avenue level. It's not very hard but pretty fun.
By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
May 8, 2013
FYI, Mick Shein's Sandia Rock guidebook has been updated in to a 2013 edition.
By kboofis
Feb 28, 2014
Anyone know what the conditions are like right now? Weather looks good for next week and kind of want to make the trip down.