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Gnarly flat wall climb that looks easy but is actually quite difficult. Also, it looks as someone has actually carved some holds into the sand stone due to difficulty.
As you pull into the Red Ledges parking lot look just left of the Diamond Fork Arch at the big round slab wall; there you will find the climb.
Six glue-ins to an anchor.
May 15, 2012
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c
This climb is hard. There are no holds, and your shoes can't grip the wind-blasted sandstone. I suggest the route around the right corner by the arch. (Unknown 2)
|By John Ross|
From: SLC, UT
Aug 21, 2012
I'm not sure Moto the route poster has even attempted this route LOL. It is a tricky slab route which I have been unable to red-point (which is why I haven't posted it). It's probably in the 5.11 range (?). I think it is climbable but maybe not by me.
This site and area is popular for rappelling. There used to be some 1/2" studs on this route with no hangers that got in the way of rappellers. A few years ago I tried to install 1/2" hangers on the studs but the sandstone was so soft the studs just pulled out when tightening the nuts, so I retro-fitted with glue-ins.
As McKay mentioned, holds are slopers, gritty with sand making it slippery. It may appear at first that a hold or two was carved out but at close inspection I don't believe that is the case as they are covered in lichen.
Protection: 6 glue-in bolts to glue-in anchors
|By Tyler McBabe|
From: SpanishFork, UT
Apr 28, 2013
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c PG13
It is a hard climb yes, but it's slab. For a slab route, this one is pretty fun. It's sketchy in nearly every way you don't want it to be. Even with the man made holds, I still thoroughly enjoyed it.
From: Mapleton, utah
May 31, 2013
Well John I have climbed the route more than once and I still have not been able to red point the climb but that should not be any reason not to post and share information about it. There are people out there that appreciate the route info vs someone bagging on a guy that just enjoys sharing climbing information.