Type: Trad, Aid, 50 ft (15 m)
FA: Tristan Higbee, 3/13/09, solo
Page Views: 1,691 total · 9/month
Shared By: Tristan Higbee on Mar 16, 2009
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C

You & This Route


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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Warning Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Start on the south edge of the tower and climb 5.7 to a ledge. Then comes the one and only aid move. Stick a lousy cam into a flaring crack (maybe offset cams would work a lot better!), pray that it won't pull, and step up on it. Hope the piece holds, and don't slip, because a fall will land you unpleasantly on the ledge. Once past that move, sling the funky horn with a cordalette, make a couple moves and sling another horn with a regular-length sling. Then comes the free climbing crux. It involves a slopey, sandy 5.8 mantle. If you fall, you'll pendulum down and left... After the mantle you can clip the anchors.

See topo pic for more beta.

As far as I know, this is a new route. If not, let me know and I'll fix it. Not that it means much in the Fishers, but the cracks were very dirty and muddy before I cleaned them out a bit, making me think that it probably hasn't been climbed before. The aid move could perhaps be freed without too much difficulty, but it sure would be scary above that ledge...

Location Suggest change

The route starts on the south edge of the tower and then moves around to the east side.

Protection Suggest change

A set of cams, one large nut. A cordalette or really long sling, several shoulder-length slings. See topo pic.

Photos

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