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Whiskey Peak
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Unsorted Routes:

Sand Felipe 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 110'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: N. Modelo & T. Cate - 1994
Page Views: 3,372
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Mar 16, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (73)
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The route offers really enjoyable edges for 100+ f...

Description 

Probably a three-star pitch before it was retrobolted into submission. Begin just left of Triassic Sands and follow the obvious line of shiny bolts to a two-bolt anchor.

If you don't have enough draws, don't worry; in many places you can simple reach down, unclip the draw at your feet, and clip it into the next bolt. Nevertheless, the pitch does offer outstanding face climbing.

A single rap with a 70m cord will get you down, or you can continue past a few more bolts up a very short second pitch (that appeared to be of lesser quality from below).

Protection 

A dozen or so draws.


Photos of Sand Felipe Slideshow Add Photo
Paul Rasmussen leading Sand Felipe, fun climbing despite the excessive bolts.
Paul Rasmussen leading Sand Felipe, fun climbing d...
Textured face of San Felipe
Textured face of San Felipe
Jonny on P-1 of Sand Felipe.
Jonny on P-1 of Sand Felipe.

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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 30, 2014
By Danny Inman
From: Arvada
Nov 27, 2006

Crimp, step up, clip a bolt, repeat. Fun climbing, but severely over bolted: 16 bolts in 90 ft.
By Anthony Stout
Administrator
From: Albuquerque, NM
Dec 7, 2006

Overbolted, yes. Fun, mmm, it was alright as noted above. We just skipped many of the bolts. I don't remember how many draws we took but did it in one long pitch. The first pitch uses 16 draws in about 100" of climbing (whats even more funny is that the first bolt is fairly high!). You can easily continue through a second pitch (combining the two) with a 60 meter rope, which has 4 more bolts (spaced much further apart). The leader can then be lowered to the first set of anchors, and rap to the ground (again, 60 meter rope will get you back to the ground).
By Chris Duca
Administrator
From: Havertown, PA
Apr 11, 2007
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Just did this route last week, and I am surprised this line didn't earn more stars--A total blast! Great position, fun AND varied movement, plus you can lower off the first set of anchors with one 60m rope. A must do if you are back on Whiskey Peak.
By Drew Peterson
Apr 15, 2007

I agree... this route was outstanding. Sure it had a lot of bolts, but some of the rock beneath the bolts may be suspect, thus the plethora of metal. Past the first set of anchors (3 or 4 more bolts) will lead you to another anchor; the climbing is generally more of the same, maybe slightly harder past the first set of anchors.
By Fink
From: Jackson, WY & Bozeman, MT
May 12, 2010
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13

Certainly worth doing--was suprised to see that Handren's guidebook didn't give it any stars!

I gave it a PG13 not for the clipfest first pitch, but the 2nd...bizarre 20ft runouts between bolts.

Fun to do if you're in the area, but I might just climb to the first set of chains.
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
May 12, 2010
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

fink- actually, thats how the entire route used to be- the first pitch had something like 8 or 9 bolts on it after the FA, but sprouted another 8 or 9 sometime afterwards, making it very out of character compared to the upper pitch.
By OKClimber
From: Folsom
May 12, 2010

There are certainly many bolts, but the rock is questionable. Didnt clip them all. But it was a fun route. Not one to hike in just to do this, but if you are in the area, not a bad route to tick off the list.
By Jon O'Brien
From: Nevada
Nov 9, 2010
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

you guys are a tough crowd... i thought the climb was very interesting and a tough os at the grade w/out chalk... then again i abhor crimps so who knows... the bolting is retarded on this thing, no thought went into it, very very random placements. when rap bolting it is ok to rehearse the route several times for optimal placements, y'know?! ;)
By Cpn Dunsel
Mar 22, 2011

For fans of Prince of Darkness that may be wanting an abbreviated, craggy, one-pitch, version of it.
By Cultivating Mass
Aug 5, 2012

This is a high quality face climbing route on very aesthetic rock that is, as was noted by several others above, a great example of how why first ascentionists should choose not to rap-bolt a route into submission. The moves and the rock are interesting, fun, and attention-getting at times. The bolting that accompanies the natural situations on the rock does not pass muster at all.

I looked at the hardware on this one on the way down from replacing an anchor on Triassic, and was not impressed. It looks like some of the dumb bolting if not all of it may have been perpetrated by the blockhead who added a 60' "second pitch", as well as additional bolts on the existing first pitch.

For those who give a shit or are aware of what this means, the "bolts" on the second pitch (and I believe on several of the dumber placements on the first, added later as noted above) are cheap sleeve bolts, intended for concrete use, and wholly unsuitable for use in a life safety/climbing application. I was able to move the left bolt of the topmost anchor by hand, and should have little trouble removing both on a return trip. There is now a stainless 1/2 inch with Fixe/ASCA ring anchors station up top.

CAUTION: the pro bolts on the second pitch and sprinkled throughout the first are the same worthless crap. Though rapping from the top is safe, falling on these chintzy "bolts" on lead is strongly reccommended against. I will post up when they are replaced with good hardware as my schedule allows, til then I reccommend climbing only to the first set of anchors.
By JMo
From: Tucson, AZ
Nov 19, 2012

There is a ton of suspect rock on this pitch.
By Arch Richardson
Sep 30, 2014

Actually, this short route does have its place in the sun. It is ideal for the aspiring Prince of Darkness leader seeking to test his/her skills on similar rock without causing a traffic jam. If you can't lead this, no need to pinch your toes on the Prince. Also, the anchors make a perfect vantage from which to photograph your friends on the crux of Triassic Sands.