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 ADVANCED
First Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Haulage, The S 
Magnatude S 
Oh it's you Bob S 
Sanctified S 
Tantrum, The S 
Tarbaby S 
World's Hardest Five Twelve, The S 

Sanctified 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Porter Jarrard
Page Views: 299
Submitted By: ---- on Jun 12, 2012

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Description 

Stick clip the first bolt and then climb out a roof on good jugs to some minor difficulties turning the lip. Rest up on some jugs and then make some easy moves up to the fifth bolt. Clip the fifth bolt from some perfectly sculpted hand sized jugs and then move into the business.

The crux boulder problem features some unforgiving crimps on very steep terrain. There is no way to weasel your way around this crux. Bring finger strength and a boulderer's mentality if you hope to have any success on this 3-4 move boulder problem. The obvious sequence sets you up for brutal shoulder wrenching, iron cross beta, but alternative beta spares you of the shouldery move. The boulder problem is hard V5 if not V6.

At the sixth bolt, transitioning from the steep angle to a blunt arete is a bit sequential. Once established on the arete the climbing eases to 5.11 with numerous resting spots.

Long slings on the third and fourth bolt make the excursion more enjoyable (from a rope drag stand point). Best to try this route in the afternoon shade as the crimps can be a bit tempermental.

Location 

Smack dab in the center of the first buttress. Finishes on the blunt arete.

Protection 

9 bolts + anchor


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