Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
South Cliffband
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Acid Rain S 
Another Lichen Nightmare S 
Crackerjack T 
Crystal Suppository S 
Dreamscape T,TR 
Dynabolic S 
Finger in the Socket S 
Illusion Dissolution S 
Just Say No to Crack S 
Leslie's Little Fingers (Atsa) S 
Prow, The S 
Rocket in My Pocket S 
Sanadine Dream S 
Shadowdancer S 
Unnamed S 

Sanadine Dream 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Adam Read, John Duran, Dan Parks
Page Views: 266
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Jun 26, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

Description 

This route is a bit schizophrenic. I could understand an argument for 3 stars, or an argument for a bomb. The rock is very good, and there are numerous sections of great climbing, and its one of the longest routes at Cochiti, but the route is split up by several too-good rests that detract from the continuity of the line. The hardware situation is best described as a botch-job, with numerous sketchy bolts and no anchor. If the hardware situation was addressed, it would be a very good route.

Begin on a nice flat boulder that offers a nice seat for booting up. A bit of wandering right, then back left on good holds leads to the first, high bolt. Traverse out right past the bolt, then up over the slight bulge on good pockets to some tricky moves involving a shallow seam, to a good stance with large, unusual jugs. The route steepens a bit as you slap up the rounded prow, eventually arriving at a large, awkward ledge on the right. From here it may be possible to execute an akward mantle onto the jutting ledge on the right, but I believe the 'proper' line is to head back left onto the prow where good, hard-to-see holds lead up to easier ground and the final bolt. From here, top out or lower off the single bolt.

Location 

On the far right/south end of the South Cliffband, beyond the rockslide. After traversing the rockslide, continue right/south past 3 bolted routes before coming to a broad wall split by a beautiful veritcal crack. The wall has a bolted route on either side of the crack. This is the Olympian Wall. Another 30 feet right is this route, Sanadine Dream, which is the first bolted route after the Olympian wall. The first bolt is a bit hard to see.

Protection 

8 Somewhat suspicious bolts, no anchor. The last bolt has two fixed biners that allow you to lower off with your heart in your throat.


Comments on Sanadine Dream Add Comment
Show which comments
By Monomaniac
Administrator
From: Morrison, CO
Jun 26, 2007

Jemez Rock mentions that the last 3 bolts (of 8) of this route had been chopped. When I did the route in late June 2007 there were plentiful bolts at the end of the route, except for the lack of an anchor. There are two types of bolts on this route, so it would seem that some of the original SMC-hangered bolts were chopped, and then someone re-bolted the route with some mysterious type of galvanized eye-bolts. The bottom half of the route still has some very old, sketchy looking bolts, and the newer bolts aren't too inspiring either (although I did lower off one of them).

The point is, the route is not missing any bolts, but its not especially safe either. There is no anchor.