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Select Area... Assembly Hall Peak Bottleneck Peak Calf Mesa Coal Wash Dead Mans Spires Dog Pond/Road area Eagle Canyon Frolic Wall Gun Show, The Head of Sinbad North Lower Buckhorn Wash Mexican Mountain Road Area Pine Canyon Private Pizza Wall San Rafael Canyon - AKA Little Grand Canyon Smith Cabin. Nothern Reef area Tiki Tower Torres de Polvo Upper Buckhorn Vertical Smile Wall Weasel Formation, The Window Blind Peak Area |
DescriptionThe San Rafael Swell is a large anticline that is split in two by I-70. Much of the documented climbing north of the interstate is concentrated within a few miles of the BLM campground at the junction of Cottonwood Wash Road and the Mexican Mountain Road. This campground has tables and a toilet and charges $3/person/night. There are many free camping opportunities along both of these roads and within a quick drive/bikeride of the toilet. There is no fresh water, and firewood is nonexistent. The largest concentration of routes is on the Dylan Wall two miles east of the campground on the north side of the river. The Mexican Mountain Road (to the Dylan Wall) is easily passable by two-wheel drive vehicles unless the road has been washed out. Eric Bjornstad's Desert Rock (Wall Street to the San Rafael Swell) offers a selection of climbs and an impressive history and geology lesson that should not be missed. While this area does not offer an extensive amount of established routes in comparison to places like Indian Creek, it has a sense of gradeur and seclusion that makes it every bit as enjoyable. Getting There30 miles west of the interstate exit for Green River, take exit 131. Make two rights and follow I-70 back east for a few miles then north for 20 miles to the San Rafael River and the campgrounds. This road was in excellent shape for two-wheel drive traffic (10/02). The road continues north up Buckhorn wash, or once across the bridge the Mexican Mountain Road (signed) goes east along the river. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for San Rafael Swell - North:
Ozymandias 5.8 C2 Trad, Aid, 6 pitches, 440 feet, Grade IV The Weasel Formation
Toviah Tower 5.8+ Trad, 4 pitches, 550 feet, Grade III Eagle Canyon : Toviah Tower
Private Pizza 5.9 Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet Private Pizza Wall
Resurrection Spire 5.9 C1 Trad, Aid, 4 pitches, 300 feet, Grade III Dead Mans Spires
Live Free or Die Tower 5.9 C2 Trad, Aid, 4 pitches, 400 feet, Grade III The Weasel Formation
Devastator Tower 5.9+ Trad, 80 feet, Grade IV The Weasel Formation
Bob Can't Climb 5.10 Trad, 1 pitch, 160 feet Mexican Mountain Road Area : Dylan Wall
Cheek Full of Redman 5.10 Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet Private Pizza Wall
Old Bushmills 5.10 Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet Pine Canyon
James Tower AKA The Lightblub 5.10 A1 Trad, Aid, 3 pitches, 200 feet Lower Buckhorn Wash
The Worse the Heat, the Better the Beer 5.10 C2 Trad, Aid, 3 pitches, 290 feet, Grade III The Weasel Formation
Anchors From Hell 5.10c Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet Pine Canyon
Short Stack 5.10d Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet Lower Buckhorn Wash
Lite Not Solid 5.10d Trad, 1 pitch, 160 feet Pine Canyon
Planet Waves 5.11a Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet Mexican Mountain Road Area : Dylan Wall
Zoomerang 5.11- Trad, 4 pitches, Grade IV Bottleneck Peak
Rabid Muslim 5.11 Trad, 1 pitch, 120 feet Pine Canyon
Idiot Wind 5.11c Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet Mexican Mountain Road Area : Dylan Wall
Tippin The Botttle 5.11+ Trad, 3 pitches, 450 feet, Grade III Bottleneck Peak
Blood on the Tracks 5.12 Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet Mexican Mountain Road Area : Dylan Wall
Featured Route For San Rafael Swell - North
Original Route 5.9 C1 UT : San Rafael Swell : ... : Trilobite Tower
P1 - Climb the beautiful splitter .5/.75 camalot crack. There is not much size variation on this pitch. 140' 5.12+/13- or C1. Belay at two bolts on a small ledge.P2 - Climb the chimney to a great ledge with two bolts. A chockstone is slung at the start, and some gear can be placed in cracks within the chimney. 80' 5.9P3 - Climb a 3 bolt ladder to some free climbing, and then another 10 bolt or so ladder to the summit. The bolt ladder has a lot of face features and should also go free, thou...[more] Browse More Classics in UT
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