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Small wall just off the Bear Canyon loop trail, a few miles away from Ortega Falls. Right next to a creek and shady much of the day. Ronnie St. Jean was the first to bring this area to Mt. Project, listing a route under Ortega falls and giving directions.
Park in the bear canyon loop trail parking lot, located across the street from the candy store a couple miles down the road from the Ortega waterfall. From the north end of the lot hike north on the trail for about 5 min. you will see the route as you approach. you can't miss it, it's the first "view" you have on the trail. when you pass the hand rail veer right on a small climbers trail to the top of the climb. Rap down or take the trail along the creek down. (Credit: Ronnie St. Jean)
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for San Juan Canyon:
Unknown 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b TR, 1 pitch, 40'
Featured Route For San Juan Canyon
Unknown 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b CA : Riverside/Orange Counties : ... : San Juan Canyon
If you are climbing the Ortega waterfall this is worth driving to. The crux is right in the middle, traverse out right using 2 very awkward small crimps to gain a lie back crack on the other side of the arete. to top out search for the jugs inside the crack. ...[more] Browse More Classics in CA
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