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Sam's Throne
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East Main Bluff 
Northern Exposure 
Outback, The 
Throne, The 
West Main Bluff 

Sam's Throne 


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Administrator: Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Erik Pohlman on Dec 24, 2006

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Never fear. These crags are guarded by knights on...

Description 

Sam's Throne offers a variety of climbing. Mostly, though, it is a bastion of trad climbing, with a few sport routes thrown in on unprotected faces. Toproping is also popular here, due to the easy access to the tops of most routes.

The locals are very particular about their ethics. If you are looking to bolt a line, ASK THE LOCALS IF IT IS AN ESTABLISHED LINE FIRST!!!


PLEASE NOTE!!!
It is NOT considered proper to hang permanent draws or chains in this area, especially on already established climbs. It is also STRONGLY discouraged on new lines that go up.



Also, a few other practices should be observed. If a route doesn't have a bolted anchor, try to walk over to one that does or leave slings on the tree you rap on to be picked up on your way out. Also, bury your doody deep and pack out the TP or burn it carefully. Make sure it is completely out.

The rock tends to be well featured and pretty bomber. Many of the routes feature a roof halfway up, followed by nicely featured vertical faces above.

The fall is by far the best time of year to climb here, because of the trees. Good climbing can be found any time of year, though.


Getting There 

This area is just up the hill from Mt. Judea, AR. The best thing would be to Mapquest that city. If coming from the north, once there, continue following AR-123 south, past a sharp left turn at a gas station. Take the next right, which is still 123. Follow it up about 4-5 miles. Sam's Throne will be on the right and is marked by a new wooden sign.

REFER TO: Classic Rock Climbs No. 22: Sam's Throne, Arkansas, by Clay Frisbee. It's out of print, so borrow one or go by his gym in Springfield, MO.

Also, this fall look for a new guide on the area by Clay Frisbie. For the most up-to-date info on this, check out www.bostonmountainpress.com


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Sam's Throne:
Boston Rag   5.7     Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet   The Throne : White Trash Wall
Diagonal Crack   5.7     Trad, 1 pitch, 40 feet   The Throne : White Trash Wall
Last Chance   5.7     Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet   The Outback : Warrior Wall & Last Chance ...
Poison Ivy   5.7+     Trad, 1 pitch, 55 feet   The Throne : Poison Ivy Wall
Albino Rhino   5.7+     Trad, 1 pitch, 55 feet   The Throne : South Side & Albino Rhino W...
Smooth Operator   5.8     Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet   East Main Bluff : The Prow & Reality Wall
Slam Dance   5.8     Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet   East Main Bluff : The Prow & Reality Wall
Silverfish   5.8+     Trad, 1 pitch, 55 feet   The Outback : Seed Wall
Patio Direct   5.9     Trad, 1 pitch, 65 feet   The Throne : The Plaque Wall
Razorback Roof   5.9+     Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet   West Main Bluff : Arachnophobia, Dark Side, &...
Diet Pepsi   5.10a     Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet   West Main Bluff : Arachnophobia, Dark Side, &...
Battle of the Bulge   5.10a     Trad, 1 pitch, 65 feet   West Main Bluff : Coup D'etat Wall
Mike's Crack   5.10b     Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet   The Throne : Blind Man's Bluff
Mandolin Gypsy   5.10     Trad, Sport, 70 feet   The Throne : South Side & Albino Rhino W...
Cat on a Hot Tin Roof   5.10c     Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet   East Main Bluff : Chickenhead Wall
Instant Karma   5.11a     Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet   The Throne : The Plaque Wall
Arkansas Reality   5.11c     Trad, 1 pitch, 55 feet   East Main Bluff : The Prow & Reality Wall
Holy Smokes!   5.12a/b     Trad, Sport   East Main Bluff : The Prow & Reality Wall
SuperNatural   5.12     Trad, 65 feet   East Main Bluff : The Prow & Reality Wall
Zion Ray   5.13a     Sport, 40 feet   The Throne : South Side & Albino Rhino W...
Browse More Classics in Sam's Throne

Featured Route For Sam's Throne
Erik on Instant Karma.

Instant Karma 5.11a  AR : Sam's Throne & Surroundings : ... : The Plaque Wall
Climb up and left in the finger crack on a slab to the base of the roof. There, pull the roof in the off-finger crack, possibly using a face hold out right. At the horizontal hand crack, head up and left to join Patio Direct at the ledge. Finish on Patio Direct. Great rock.May feel 10+ if you're taller than 5'10"....[more]   Browse More Classics in AR


Photos of Sam's Throne Slideshow Add Photo
Beautiful views like this can be found from almost anywhere at Sam's.

Beautiful views like this can be found from almost...

Tony Brown hangin' out at White Trash wall.

Tony Brown hangin' out at White Trash wall.

View of the valley below Sam's Throne

View of the valley below Sam's Throne

the throne

the throne

Dead Dog, 5.11a, sport

Dead Dog, 5.11a, sport


Comments on Sam's Throne Add Comment
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By Joe M
From: Rapid City, SD
Aug 12, 2007

There is AWESOME primitive camping right at the top of the cliffline... and its FREE!!

By cfittell
From: Lawrence, KS
Feb 29, 2012

The primitive camping just got better; there are now pit toilets at Sam's Throne! Thank you Forest Service!

By austin luper
From: Fayetteville
Apr 28, 2012

If anyone ever needs a partner to climb at Sam's or surrounding areas shoot me a message or call/text 479-879-2908. i have a rack been climbing for 4 years. i can go almost any day even if you are reading this a month from now