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Sam's Throne

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East Main Bluff 
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West Main Bluff 

Sam's Throne 


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Location: 35.87051, -93.05253 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrator: Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Erik Pohlman on Dec 24, 2006
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Never fear. These crags are guarded by knights on...

Description 

Sam's Throne offers a variety of climbing. Mostly, though, it is a bastion of trad climbing, with a few sport routes thrown in on unprotected faces. Toproping is also popular here, due to the easy access to the tops of most routes.

The locals are very particular about their ethics. If you are looking to bolt a line, ASK THE LOCALS IF IT IS AN ESTABLISHED LINE FIRST!!!


PLEASE NOTE!!!
It is NOT considered proper to hang permanent draws or chains in this area, especially on already established climbs. It is also STRONGLY discouraged on new lines that go up.



Also, a few other practices should be observed. If a route doesn't have a bolted anchor, try to walk over to one that does or leave slings on the tree you rap on to be picked up on your way out. Also, bury your doody deep and pack out the TP or burn it carefully. Make sure it is completely out.

The rock tends to be well featured and pretty bomber. Many of the routes feature a roof halfway up, followed by nicely featured vertical faces above.

The fall is by far the best time of year to climb here, because of the trees. Good climbing can be found any time of year, though.


Getting There 

This area is just up the hill from Mt. Judea, AR. The best thing would be to Mapquest that city. If coming from the north, once there, continue following AR-123 south, past a sharp left turn at a gas station. Take the next right, which is still 123. Follow it up about 4-5 miles. Sam's Throne will be on the right and is marked by a new wooden sign.

REFER TO: Classic Rock Climbs No. 22: Sam's Throne, Arkansas, by Clay Frisbee. It's out of print, so borrow one or go by his gym in Springfield, MO.

Also, this fall look for a new guide on the area by Clay Frisbie. For the most up-to-date info on this, check out www.bostonmountainpress.com


Climbing Season


121 Total Routes


['4 Stars',20],['3 Stars',62],['2 Stars',32],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',2]
['<=5.6',6],['5.7',17],['5.8',20],['5.9',15],['5.10',29],['5.11',17],['5.12',14],['5.13',3],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Sam's Throne:
Diagonal Crack   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 40'   The Throne : White Trash Wall
Boston Rag   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   The Throne : White Trash Wall
Last Chance   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   The Outback : Warrior Wall & Last Chance ...
Poison Ivy   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 55'   The Throne : Poison Ivy Wall
Albino Rhino   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 55'   The Throne : South Side & Albino Rhino W...
Smooth Operator   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   East Main Bluff : The Prow & Reality Wall
Slam Dance   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   East Main Bluff : The Prow & Reality Wall
You Crack Me Up   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   The Throne : White Trash Wall
Patio Direct   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 65'   The Throne : The Plaque Wall
White Trash   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 40'   The Throne : White Trash Wall
Razorback Roof   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   West Main Bluff : Arachnophobia, Dark Side, &...
Diet Pepsi   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   West Main Bluff : Arachnophobia, Dark Side, &...
Cat on a Hot Tin Roof   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   East Main Bluff : Chickenhead Wall
Windy Armbuster   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   East Main Bluff : Chickenhead Wall
Past the Jugs   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 55'   The Throne : South Side & Albino Rhino W...
Instant Karma   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   The Throne : The Plaque Wall
Arkansas Reality   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 55'   East Main Bluff : The Prow & Reality Wall
Quantum Leap   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 40'   The Throne : South Side & Albino Rhino W...
Browse More Classics in Sam's Throne

Featured Route For Sam's Throne
SuperNatural, Photo by Jim Gu

SuperNatural 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b  AR : Sam's Throne & Surroundings : ... : The Prow & Reality Wall
I stared at this face for ten years, stopping in amazement one of my first trips down. "Wow!" I thought, "will it ever go?" The more I climbed at Sams Throne, the more I learned what gear would, and wouldn't work, and what it took to do routes ground up in an area where cracks dead ended disappointingly, and finicky seams sometimes gave protection, but oftentimes, not. The obvious blank green face is practically hold-less, but my eyes traced the most possible looking line; up the...[more]   Browse More Classics in AR

Photos of Sam's Throne Slideshow Add Photo
Beautiful views like this can be found from almost anywhere at Sam's.
Beautiful views like this can be found from almost...
Dead Dog, 5.11a, sport
Dead Dog, 5.11a, sport
Tony Brown hangin' out at White Trash wall.
Tony Brown hangin' out at White Trash wall.
the throne
the throne
View of the valley below Sam's Throne
View of the valley below Sam's Throne
Rox
Rox
Comments on Sam's Throne Add Comment
Show which comments
By Joe M
From: Rapid City, SD
Aug 12, 2007

There is AWESOME primitive camping right at the top of the cliffline... and its FREE!!

By cfittell
From: Lawrence, KS
Feb 29, 2012

The primitive camping just got better; there are now pit toilets at Sam's Throne! Thank you Forest Service!

By austin luper
From: Fayetteville
Apr 28, 2012

If anyone ever needs a partner to climb at Sam's or surrounding areas shoot me a message or call/text 479-879-2908. i have a rack been climbing for 4 years. i can go almost any day even if you are reading this a month from now