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Sam's Ghost 

YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ British: E2 5b R

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 2 pitches, 400', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Bradley White, Ted Hammond, 1982
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 873
Submitted By: bradley white on Jun 22, 2009
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Description 

The steep dike itself is not climbed but itís south outside wall is until beneath a shallow ceiling bulge (protection crack fills with pebbles, bring nut pick to pry them out). Get over it and go straight up to belay under loose protruding flake. Here there is easy access to Sam's. Climb pass the horrid loose flake that forms the right side of a crack, avoid contact with it. After crack (if it still exist at all-because much rock has fallen out of this area on Sam's), climb the upside down staircase at 5-10 to either runout 5-9 face finish right (Ted Hammond led it) or much easier moves left to join the beginning of the traverse north of Sam's third pitch. Some Aid used on first accent.


Location 

Dike north of top of Samís Swan Songís buttress.


Protection 

pins are old now and may need backups. Rappel or finish Sam's Swan Song.



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