Sam's Ghost  5.10a/b R

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Type:  Trad, Alpine, 2 pitches, 400 feet, Grade II Consensus:  5.10a/b [details] FA:  Bradley White, Ted Hammond, 1982 New Route:  Yes Submitted By:  bradley white on Jun 22, 2009 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

The steep dike itself is not climbed but it’s south outside wall is until beneath a shallow ceiling bulge (protection crack fills with pebbles, bring nut pick to pry them out). Get over it and go straight up to belay under loose protruding flake. Here there is easy access to Sam's. Climb pass the horrid loose flake that forms the right side of a crack, avoid contact with it. After crack (if it still exist at all-because much rock has fallen out of this area on Sam's), climb the upside down staircase at 5-10 to either runout 5-9 face finish right (Ted Hammond led it) or much easier moves left to join the beginning of the traverse north of Sam's third pitch. Some Aid used on first accent.

Location 

Dike north of top of Sam’s Swan Song’s buttress.

Protection 

pins are old now and may need backups. Rappel or finish Sam's Swan Song.