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 ADVANCED
The Weeping Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bye Gully T 
Change in the Weather T 
Clam Chowder T 
Commencement T 
Duck Soup T 
Green Monster T 
Revelation T 
Sampson T 
Serpentine T 
Surprise T 
Surprise Direct T 
Ten Karat Gold T 

Sampson 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 300'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Pat Callis and Larry Harrell, August, 1967
Season: Spring - Fall
Page Views: 487
Submitted By: Roger Linfield on Jan 23, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Description 

This route follows a prominent left-facing corner at the right end of the Weeping Wall. Pitch 1 goes up a short, awkward corner to a good ledge. Pitch 2 (5.8) goes up the unaesthetic corner above, with somewhat tricky protection. Now you are at the base of a huge dihedral. Climb up the dihedral (a lot of face climbing, with small gear in the crack), follow the corner as it arches left, carefully place protection, and do the crux mantle to the top of the climb.

Protection 

Standard rack, with plenty of small gear.


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By Dynomight510
Sep 11, 2009

Wow. It was like walking on the moon-lots of friction climbing. most Pro was thin or not confidence inspiring. The pro I used at the mantle finish was solid, tricky but at my feet. There was an alternate placement higher up but my buddy popped it when he took a short flyer. Be solid in the grade before attempting this one.
By Tradoholic
2 days ago

This thing is underrated. Bring a few small pieces to sew it up. It's all feet and back friction for the dihedral. The finish mantle is by far the hardest part. What's the bolted route just right of this?