The bouldering here is located across two different town parks, Samp Mortar Rock & Mountain Laurel Park. Folks have been bouldering at the two parks for at least two decades possibly even longer.
Originally, the Samp Mortar was used by aboriginal groups as a quartz quarry, the remnants of which are visible on the walk into the Samp Mortar area. Tucked away below a broken schist cliffband is a pile of 5 or so large blocks. These blocks have a large variety of problems on them ranging from V0-V11/V12, from 1 move wonders to huge High Balls.
Mt. Laurel Park is located on the other end of the cliff band and hosts several great climbs from V0-V10. The landings and problems in this area are not quite as good as the Samp Mortar side but still quite worthy.
The cliff band that connects these two areas is very intriguing with many unique features and probably the largest hueco in Connecticut but offers little in the way of safe climbing as the schist has a high mica content and tends to just crumbles away. There is a very unique 30ft horizontal roof here which may have a route or two on it but it looks as if it one day could collapse (probably won't though). There is a small alcove in between the two areas that has had some development with a nice arete climb, a great moderate HB face climb, and some low ball problems as well as a larger overhanging face of high quality rock with only a few problems.
SAMP MORTAR: From the Merritt Parkway: 1. Get off exit 44 2. Travel south on the Black rock Turnpike 3. Take right on Samp Mortar Dr 4. Take your first right onto Springer Rd 5. Follow to the end of the road just before dead end is the park entrance.
From 95: 1. Get off exit 24 2. Travel North on the Black rock Turnpike 3. Take left on Samp Mortar Dr 4. Take your first right onto Springer Rd 5. Follow to the end of the road just before dead end is the park
MOUNTAIN LAUREL 1. Turn onto Springer Rd and turn left onto Mountain Laurel Rd. 2. Continue straight past a large slab on your right. 3. Proceed 100 yrds further and look for a parking on your right.
Starting deep under the main roof on jugs, move straight out the roof on small holds to a sloping crimper the up and left on the decent horizontals at the top of the roof....[more]Browse More Classics in CT
As far as the cliff line in between Samp Mortar and Mountain Laurel goes, a few of my friends and I have cleaned, developed, and put up 12-15 routes along the cliff with more being developed as time goes on. Many going on gear with heady leads, while some must be top roped. As of now the grades range from around 5.6-5.10, with possibilities for harder climbs (most likely on TR) We plan on posting topo's at some point. But you can always shoot me a message for more info if youre thinking of giving some of the routes a shot. While some people think the cliffs are sketchy there are some awesome climbs on good rock if you know where to look!
Forgot to add the part about how climbing is not allowed on the left side of the cliff band, the side closest to Mountain Laurel. That part of the cliff is not open space and the owners have come out and expressed the fact that they do not want people climbing on their property. We are slowly working on access... But the routes closest to Samp Mortar are open to climb. I have talked to owners on top of the cliff and as long as people are SAFE and RESPECTFUL they have no problems with it.