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Samurai Loving at the Second Meat Wall, Indian Cre...
|RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>|
Start up through poor rock which leads to a short chimney then up a nice, right-facing corner.
Mostly #.75 - #2, something smaller for start.
lots of hands .. no gear for the first 40 ft er so...
By Phill T
May 10, 2010
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
5.10 would be a sandbag and a half for this monster. there is a good 20 feet of _tight_ hands and/or ringlocks above the overhung section and then a move or three of fists/offwidth at the very top before the chains. There are decent rests in the good hands section and through the overhang, but its pretty sustained up top. definitely takes 2 ropes to get down, even a 70 wont quite make it if you scramble up and right and belay on the ledge up there. Well worth doing despite the sandy start, but it aint no straightforward 5.10.
By Michael Schneiter
From: Glenwood Springs, CO
Oct 9, 2010
Evidently this is an old Bandito route, at least judging from the old "Bandito" stamped aluminum hanger. The other hanger is a thin, old hanger and while the bolts are tight, eventually someone will probably want to add some fresh hardware. This route deserves it, it's a sweet line.