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Sam Lightner Jr. Appreciation Thread
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Jun 3, 2010
Maya's first trip to RMNP.
I was talking with Sam this morning and he informed me that he had climbed his 100th desert tower.

Right on Sam! Congratulations!


Just climbing 100 towers in the desert is impressive but what really struck me were the stats that went along with those towers...

29 were done solo
69 had anchor replacement or required new anchors
20 via a new route
12 were first ascents of the tower


I'm posting this because he would consider it bad form to spray about his contributions/accomplishments on MP.

BUT COME ON!

Out of 100 towers he has taken the time to install solid anchors on 69 of them. That's freaking awesome! Having been there for a few of those towers I can attest that replacing old angles and faded slings with half inch bolts and beefy chain does not make for a light pack! In fact, we weighed his solo haulbag the last time I was in Moab and it came in at 77lbs.

He has also
1. Funded the anchor replacement work he has done.

2. Served on the board of the Access Fund for 6 years.

3. Put up hundreds of routes from Utah to Thailand that have been enjoyed by climbers from all over the world.

4. Written 7 books including the guidebook for Thailand, All Elevations Unknown (about a wild expedition to a giant spire in the heart of Borneo that had never been explored by climbers), Exotic Rock (which covers Japan, Hong Kong, Malaysia, Thailand, Indonesia, Morocco, Greece, Norway, and South Africa), and the Roads Through Time series. (The Moab - Roads Through Time book is particularly interesting if you spend much time in the area)

5. Served 3 years as the President of the Moab Area Climbers Alliance, who's goal is to restore/improve the relationship between climbers and the NPS units in the Moab area.

6. Taken over the lead after I nearly wet myself. Hey, this one's damn important!


Anyway, I just thought I would use this as an excuse to give a shout out to Sam and say thanks for all your hard work.
It is much appreciated!

Cheers,
Brad
Brad Brandewie
Joined Apr 29, 2001
3,049 points
Jun 3, 2010
In the sea of Cortez - Baja California, Mexico
WOOOOOOOOOHOOOOOOOOOO!!!!!!!!!!!!!! AJS
From Boulder, CO
Joined Mar 4, 2008
33 points
Site Landlord
Jun 3, 2010
Racked and loaded... name that splitter behind me?...
+1 for Sam. We love you man.

I head the pleasure of holding his rope for this horror fest . I was sore for weeks... and he just laughed (cackled really) his way through it.

Rock on Sam.
Andy Laakmann
From Bend, OR
Joined Jan 1, 2001
2,411 points
Jun 3, 2010
Credits: Marty TwoBulls m2bulls.com  indiancountry...
thanks Sam -your the man

The Fang seems to be the star of the Amphitheatre ...
The Fang seems to be the star of the Amphitheatre right now. Sam Lightner Jr. taking his rightful turn on lead. Nice work, Sam!

i have no tower photos yet, hmmm...
kirra
Joined Feb 1, 2006
724 points
Administrator
Jun 3, 2010
tomato, tomotto, kill mike amato.
brad, i think you and/or ben(?) have climbed 100+, how on earth did you guys beat sam to it? i figured he must have climbed 200 by now. must be all that time he wastes replacing them damned anchors. :)

congrats sam, i hope to join that club some day, but i have a lot to go. would help if i would hurry up and win the lotto.
slim
Joined Dec 1, 2004
2,067 points
Jun 3, 2010
Damn, those are some serious creds Sam.

All of your efforts are (and have been) greatly appreciated!
Umph!
Joined Nov 8, 2004
277 points
Jun 3, 2010
sam=my hero. S mountainsense
Joined Jul 28, 2008
542 points
Jun 3, 2010
The Shield
Thank you Brad for the Kudos... I really do appreciate it. You are a great friend. Sam Lightner, Jr.
From Lander, WY
Joined Apr 9, 2006
2,248 points
Jun 3, 2010
The Shield
And thanks to everyone for the kind words... see you at the crags. Sam Lightner, Jr.
From Lander, WY
Joined Apr 9, 2006
2,248 points
Jun 3, 2010
J TREE
Julie and I were getting back to our car at Ouray a couple of years ago and parked in front of us was Sam's vehicle.

The four of us were all getting back to our cars at the same time, we all said hello, maybe asked about the day, blah, blah, blah.

But what's always stuck out to me is how Sam saw thru our windshield to the feather boa wrapped around the top of the drives seat, and said, " Nice Boa"..................

Glad some one so observant is doing so much, so so many can enjoy,

THANKS >>>>>
Jim Amidon
Joined Jun 12, 2001
927 points
Jun 3, 2010
Splitter Jams on the Israel/Palestine Security Wal...
That's awesome stuff, Sam!

He's also a gentleman, scholar, and Hell raiser on MP. I hope some day to share a few pitches and buy dinner afterward.
Shawn Mitchell
From Broomfield
Joined Mar 4, 2008
313 points
Jun 4, 2010
Brad, thanks, for posting this thread. The climbing community is very lucky to have Sam out there. The Moab regions anchors where a time bomb, old, rusting, uv damaged and worn out! Many classics have been fixed by Sam in the last couple of years!
Thanks Sam for having endless energy for helping the climbing community out!
Josh Gross
Joined Nov 5, 2006
1,733 points
Jun 4, 2010
Maya's first trip to RMNP.
slim,

I think we beat Sam because he spent all that time replacing anchors and we usually rapped off of the crap angles that were there. :)

I'm moving over to Sam's camp though after reading Darren's comments on The Oracle and after removing pins without a funkness on the Warrior.

Experience has shown me that the best anchors in the desert are bolts and that pins, though they have their place, should be avoided if possible. (which is kind of a bummer because pins make much better footholds :)
Brad Brandewie
Joined Apr 29, 2001
3,049 points
Jun 4, 2010
Mexico wasn't as warm as we thought
Sam is a motivational climber. I mean anyone who jugs Westside Story without aiders and rebolts the entire route is THE MAN. But seriously, I look up to and know we all appreciate his work in the desert, the desert SW is a safer place because of him.

Having shared a couple pitches on multiple towers, I must say he is in the top 3 partners I could ever hope to have on any terrain. He sings well and lets me carry all the gear, what else can a partner ask for?
Matt Pickren
Joined Mar 7, 2005
775 points
Jun 4, 2010
 P.Ross on the FA Girdle/Traverse  of Castleton To...
Well done Sam... but do not stop ..."real" (young) men can climb 200...Its just so rare these days that so called climbers do more than single pitch climbs .... USBRIT
From Keswick Cumbria.UK
Joined Apr 9, 2001
17,391 points
Jun 4, 2010
Big thumb's up from me, too. If I run into you at some crag beer's on me. steve edwards
From SLC, UT
Joined May 3, 2004
551 points
Jun 4, 2010
This fellow Sam Lightner Jr. sounds like quite an impressive fellow. The concept of accomplishing such profound ascents while also improving the infrastructure of the climbing arena is an impressive feat. Amazing! Frank derabit
Joined May 30, 2010
4 points
Jun 4, 2010
2003
Yeah Sam! Ben Kiessel
Joined Mar 9, 2004
2,884 points
Jun 5, 2010
100 towers;...and lived to tell the tale!...Good on ya;...and thanks for all the hard work, time, energy, and your own money to replace anchors, bolts, pitons that are old and unsafe;....It's alot of work, and it is greatly appreciated by the climbing community. It takes forever to get 100 towers;....and it's a small group of knuckleheads who , for some reason or another, manage to scale 100 towers.....very impressive and way to go, Sam. Have 100 beers now;..one for each tower.....(spread the beers out over 2 or 3 days too...probably a good idea...) .. climb on!,...be safe, and thanks again for all the hard work and effort on your part. You RULE! toddgordon
From Joshua Tree, California
Joined Nov 26, 2006
9,929 points
Administrator
Jun 5, 2010
El Chorro
Paul Ross wrote:
...Its just so rare these days that so called climbers do more than single pitch climbs ....


In what world do you live in? Oh yea, Boulder ;)

Thanks for all of your work Sam.
Ryan Williams
From London (sort of)
Joined May 10, 2009
1,468 points
Jun 5, 2010
Out of the blue.  Photo by Mike W.
Sam, thanks not only for all the work you have done, but the quality of your work. I have clipped your anchors many times. Good to see some people still take serious pride in their work such as you, "wildhorse" (Darren), and Kevin Stricker. Greg D
From Here
Joined Apr 5, 2006
960 points
Site Landlord
Jun 5, 2010
Racked and loaded... name that splitter behind me?...
Sam is from Wyoming you know....

Cowboy up!
Cowboy up!
Andy Laakmann
From Bend, OR
Joined Jan 1, 2001
2,411 points
Jun 5, 2010
Congratulations Sam! What an accomplishment!


I want to add my thanks to those already posted. Thank you for your example, and work for the climbing community.
Kelly C.
From Moab, UT
Joined Jul 8, 2008
1 points
Jun 7, 2010
A route I established at The Overlook called, Phot...
Was The Pillbox, tower 100?
And what were your top 3 favorite towers?
Congrats!!!!
Darren Knezek
Joined Jan 20, 2006
860 points
Jun 8, 2010
Dusk at the Rim Lounge, San Rafael Swell.
I ran into Sam a few weeks ago on top of a local landform, and I was glad to have the opportunity to thank Sam in person for all of his hardware contributions to safety over the years. It's rare when someone who puts in the extra time and money into an area gets thanked for it.
Cheers!
Bill Duncan
From Jamestown, CO
Joined Mar 30, 2005
2,890 points
Administrator
Jun 8, 2010
8-21-09
Well done, Sam. Thank you for all of your contributions to the community! Congrats on bagging your 100th tower, too. Badass! M.Morley
From Sacramento, CA
Joined Jan 1, 2002
7,006 points


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