The short start goes past some spooky but fairly solid blocks and takes you to the bottom of the Scuffle and Dust Cough corner. At this point you climb the crack/corner just left of S&DC. There is one stout clip at the crux. I found the crux reachy at 5'6" tall. The gear is good with bolts between the good gear. The moves to the belay ledge are hard to decipher but as good as they get. 2)Climb corner to bombay flake above which you head right to a bolt. Up and right again leads to some really fun moderate dihedral climbing with great pro. The end of this climb is on nice face with two bolts. Two raps with a 60M rope(JUST REACHES) get you back to the ground. I Did this thing ground up with Manny, our first climb together. It was a blast.
Starts just left of Scuffle & Dust Cough.
Bolts and an expanded single rack, The first pitch needs a red camalot down to a blue,purple and grey metolius microcams. We fourth classed up to the start of the route at the base of the Scuffle and Dust Cough Corner. You might want pro to reach it. Second pitch will need doubles of purple to yellow camalot and one blue for the flake 30 feet up.
EFR leading the first pitch, ground up and bolting...
|By manuel rangel|
From: Tempe, Arizona
Aug 2, 2013
That was a great day on Mt Lemmon. I was witness to a great lead by a master! What a great day. Nice rock and some challenging climbing. Thanks for the ride EFR!
From: Tucson, AZ
Aug 8, 2013
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c
This route is great. The first pitch has some really fun moves and some good exposure. The second pitch is also quite fun and well worth doing. If you are looking for well-protected 5.11 climbing at the reef this route is right on the mark.
We found that a single rack through #3 Camalot with one or two extra finger size cams was sufficient.