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This is a fun route, the only drawback is the rusty old bolts. Climb up the face past 4 bolts, then into some underclings (bring some small TCUs to use here, I used a green alien) and on to the anchor.
The first and fourth bolts are quarter inch but decent looking, but the middle two bolts look really sketchy: homemade-looking hangers and super rusty. Also, the anchor only has one bolt but it can be backed up by a really good red camalot placement.
This felt easier than the guidebook rating of 5.10d to me, but maybe that is because I was trying so hard not to fall on the sketchy bolts.
This is at the Sales Pitch area, high on the west side of the Challenge Buttress. Hike up the talus field and the climb will be on your left near the top of the gully.
4 quickdraws and small TCUs to protect the final moves. Optional red camalot or equivalent to back up the single bolt anchor.
Climbing near the 4th bolt on Sales Pitch
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jul 8, 2010
ahhh... so so climb. 2 of the 4 bolts have been replaced, but the same single chain link anchor remains. The 9+ R to the left was spicy and fun... but personally... not worth the hike, but surfin talus down to hollow man sure was a good time (Hint of sarcasm)
|By Tim Wolfe|
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Aug 8, 2011
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b
Wonderful but short. Well worth the hike I believe. Very thin edging, 2 bolts a bit old but 2 are good enough and good gear at the end. The belay is a bit of a concern though - hard to get to solo so someone just needs to rap a single piece or leave a cam.
|By Allen Sanderson|
Jun 27, 2012
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII E2 5b
HAHAHA, son them hangers are Leeper Hangers, been around since the 70s. Ole Ed did a recall on them a few years back. Now if you want to homemade hangers you should see the one I got from Bridwell. Double wrapped galvanized pipe tape.
BTW there is now a second bolt at the anchor. Both bolts could use some chain. About a 14" piece on the original bolt and a 8 piece on the new bolt.
|By Spencer Weiler|
From: SLC, UT
Aug 30, 2012
Fun climb. Agreed bolts 1&4 are looking good, but bolts 2&3 are a bit rusty. There is currently a 2' piece of tat on the last bolt, maybe as a hand or foot hold of some kind? Forgot my commando knife to remove it. You can bring a tcu if you want it for the last section, but it creates bad rope drag and its easy once you get to a stance to place the gear from anyway. 2 bolt anchor, but totally offset so lowering is a no go unless you want licorice for a rope.