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Salathe trip report
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By Gregger Man
Sep 26, 2009
gg

Salathe trip report


[cross-posted at BigWalls.com - sorry, I'm a ham.]


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By John Maguire
From Boulder, CO
Sep 26, 2009
Bastille Crack Final Pitch

Outstanding. Sounds like a slog. Awesome write up.


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By David Aguasca!
From New York
Sep 26, 2009
Oh no! OUT OF COFFEE! ALL IS LOST

Excellent work! How you made it up that wall hauling 160lbs is beyond me...


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By Mark Roth
From Boulder
Sep 26, 2009
not climbing

Awesome Report!
My wife and I saw you guys from the meadow...


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By Gregger Man
Sep 27, 2009
gg

David Aguasca wrote:
Excellent work! How you made it up that wall hauling 160lbs is beyond me...

The pigs got a good bit lighter each day.
We actually left 3 liters of water at Heart Ledges because we figured ~20 liters per dude was too much. Without the extra water Dave hiked up to the top, we would have ended up 3 liters short...


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By Steve Williams
From Denver, CO
Sep 27, 2009

Great send, Greg & Wally!
Did elcap-pics see you up there?


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By Paul Hunnicutt
From Boulder, CO
Sep 27, 2009
Half Dome

was the hollow flake as bad as it seemed? you had a homemade cam for this pitch? how far did you have to run it out?

though it sounds like the roof pitch up high was more eventful.


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By Gregger Man
Sep 28, 2009
gg

Steve - We gave Tom a beer at the bridge. His photos are labeled in the slideshow.
Paul - Wally led that pitch, and I think it was as hard or harder than expected. I'll let him chime in on the particulars, but the cam made it more than 3/4 of the way up.
I made the #7 VallyCamaFriendAlot specifically for that pitch, but we ended up using it on 4 different pitches to good effect (Hollow Flake, the chimney after that, the Ear, and the exit chimney on P34.) I got the strongest torsion springs I could find so that it still worked well when tipped out near the 9" mark.


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By Rick Blair
From Denver
Sep 28, 2009
This is a novel auto blocking belay device.  I think it works quite well, depending on rope thickness and sheath quality, it belays very smooth.  Great to lower with.  You gotta love over engineering.  $3 at a gear swap!

Greg,

That thing is absolutely amazing, thanks for posting the picture!

Which factory in China did the fab work?? Just kidding.

Congratulations to you and Wally ( and Dave ) Awesome work!!!


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By Wally
From Denver
Sep 29, 2009

Thanks for the kudos guys.

David - we used the Chongo 2 to 1 system to haul. The temps were warm - therefore the bags were heavy! - we drank about a gallon of water per person per day, not including all of the applesauce, fruit cocktail, etc. that was also consumed.

Paul - the Hollow Flake certainly has my respect. I thought it was pretty hard. The pro beta for that pitch is right on - bring a #5 for down low, and a #6 - and then you have to run it out for a long way on Yosemite 5.8 (or 5.9??) OW. Having Greg's homemade #7 camalot certainly took some of the commitment out of that pitch for me - I slid it along just about all of the way to the anchors. Lame - sure.!

:<). I am okay with that.

Great climb with very memorable pitches. Harder than the Nose - mostly because of the wide pitches. The Ear was nasty hard. Good stuff.

Climb Ohn. Wally


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By Mike Pharris
From Longmont, CO
Sep 29, 2009
Climbing above Black Lake

real nice TR !!


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By epoch
From Maine
Sep 30, 2009

Gregger, that cam is beautiful!


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By Andrew Gram
Administrator
From Salt Lake City, UT
Oct 6, 2009
Andrew Gram

That is an absolutely wonderful TR.


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By Mark Hudon
Feb 15, 2010
On the North America Wall in 1977.

Awesome! I would have shit my pants if I fell below the roof!


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By Keenan Waeschle
From Bozeman, MT
Feb 15, 2010
on top of the RNWF <br />June 2012

how the hell did you make that cam? I know valley giant makes huge 12" cams that you can buy for around 200$ how much did that cost to make?


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By Gregger Man
Feb 15, 2010
gg

keenan18 wrote:
how the hell did you make that cam? I know valley giant makes huge 12" cams that you can buy for around 200$ how much did that cost to make?

True, I could have bought a Valley Giant -- But I wanted to make a cam. I'm currently working on an offset cam design somewhat similar to an Alien, (but better).
I bought the aluminum for $40. The springs cost about $5.
I build guitars for a living, and one of the tools I use is a ShopBot CNC machine. I made a 3D model on the computer, then cut out the parts using the machine. Voilą: cam.
CAD/CAM cam
CAD/CAM cam


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By Keenan Waeschle
From Bozeman, MT
Feb 15, 2010
on top of the RNWF <br />June 2012

nice! how'd you get your hands on a machine such as that? great TR, I would love to get on that route at some point.


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By Gregger Man
Feb 15, 2010
gg

keenan18 wrote:
nice! how'd you get your hands on a machine such as that? great TR, I would love to get on that route at some point.

Thanks - it is a classic route.
20 years ago, buying a CNC machine was a $100K proposition.
Now there are machines in the sub-$2K range.
Learning 3D modeling isn't as easy as getting the machine, though.


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By Tea
Feb 16, 2010
just Jong it!

Strong Work! Thanks for sharing! That cam looks Sweet!


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By Keenan Waeschle
From Bozeman, MT
Feb 16, 2010
on top of the RNWF <br />June 2012

make me one? I'll sign a wavier so my family won't sue you when the cam breaks and sends my body sailing off on a monster whipper into the slabs below.....


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By CO_Michael
Feb 16, 2010
Mexico roadside rocks

What does the sucker weigh?

I looked up ShopBot CNC machine and they are $8000.


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By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From Bend, OR
Feb 16, 2010
Racked and loaded... name that splitter behind me? Hint, its on Supercrack Buttress

Awesome!

Out of curiosity - where does one buy a Valley Giant right now? My local REI seemed out of them.... :)

(I am serious though, where would I purchase one of these)


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By Gregger Man
Feb 16, 2010
gg

keenan18 wrote:
make me one? I'll sign a wavier so my family won't sue you when the cam breaks and sends my body sailing off on a monster whipper into the slabs below.....


Well, I didn't include the time/labor factor in my description of the cost. I didn't charge myself for labor, but if I were to make cams like this for sale I would have to price them similar to the Valley Giant in order to make it a profitable deal. In the drawing, each blue line represents a pass of an 1/8" carbide bit at a depth of about 0.015" in the aluminum. Cutting out 4 lobes, a stem, and a trigger equals several hours of machine time. Industry standard is $60-$90/hour for CNC time (on the _low_ end.) - If my shop were set up for metal working instead of making lots of exotic sawdust, I could probably knock out those lobes in half an hour...

MichaelClimbs - It's pretty darn heavy. Getting it into my basement in pieces pulled several muscles. I built the table from steel I-beams. When I purchased mine in 2001, it cost ~$5000. The price has gone up. [edit: Oh, if you mean 'how heavy is the cam?': 1lb 15oz.]


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By TMC
From Denver, CO
Feb 16, 2010

Nice work Greg! I seem to remember you from Eldo wearing the sweetest helmet I've ever seen....

Greg's helmet
Greg's helmet


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By Gregger Man
Feb 16, 2010
gg

Toni Marie wrote:
Nice work Greg! I seem to remember you from Eldo wearing the sweetest helmet I've ever seen....


I am an inveterate DIY'er.
The removable hat brim with Velcro tabs and baling wire rim was cut from the Cordura of a discarded piece of luggage and lovingly stitched by hand. Keeps the sun off my lily-white skin.
You should see my piles of failed DIY experiments...


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By Keenan Waeschle
From Bozeman, MT
Feb 16, 2010
on top of the RNWF <br />June 2012

home.pacbell.net/takasper/slcd/index.html
valley giants!!


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