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Salathe trip report
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Sep 26, 2009
gg
Salathe trip report


[cross-posted at bigwalls.com - sorry, I'm a ham.]
Gregger Man
Joined Aug 15, 2004
733 points
Sep 26, 2009
Bastille Crack Final Pitch
Outstanding. Sounds like a slog. Awesome write up. John Maguire
From Boulder, CO
Joined Nov 23, 2008
212 points
Sep 26, 2009
Oh no! OUT OF COFFEE! ALL IS LOST
Excellent work! How you made it up that wall hauling 160lbs is beyond me... David Aguasca!
From New York
Joined May 7, 2008
644 points
Sep 26, 2009
not climbing
Awesome Report!
My wife and I saw you guys from the meadow...
Mark Roth
From Boulder
Joined Jan 4, 2008
12,524 points
Sep 27, 2009
gg
David Aguasca wrote:
Excellent work! How you made it up that wall hauling 160lbs is beyond me...

The pigs got a good bit lighter each day.
We actually left 3 liters of water at Heart Ledges because we figured ~20 liters per dude was too much. Without the extra water Dave hiked up to the top, we would have ended up 3 liters short...
Gregger Man
Joined Aug 15, 2004
733 points
Sep 27, 2009
Great send, Greg & Wally!
Did elcap-pics see you up there?
Steve Williams
From Denver, CO
Joined Jul 15, 2005
61 points
Sep 27, 2009
Half Dome
was the hollow flake as bad as it seemed? you had a homemade cam for this pitch? how far did you have to run it out?

though it sounds like the roof pitch up high was more eventful.
Paul Hunnicutt
From Boulder, CO
Joined Sep 23, 2006
405 points
Sep 28, 2009
gg
Steve - We gave Tom a beer at the bridge. His photos are labeled in the slideshow.
Paul - Wally led that pitch, and I think it was as hard or harder than expected. I'll let him chime in on the particulars, but the cam made it more than 3/4 of the way up.
I made the #7 VallyCamaFriendAlot specifically for that pitch, but we ended up using it on 4 different pitches to good effect (Hollow Flake, the chimney after that, the Ear, and the exit chimney on P34.) I got the strongest torsion springs I could find so that it still worked well when tipped out near the 9" mark.

Gregger Man
Joined Aug 15, 2004
733 points
Sep 28, 2009
This is a novel auto blocking belay device.  I thi...
Greg,

That thing is absolutely amazing, thanks for posting the picture!

Which factory in China did the fab work?? Just kidding.

Congratulations to you and Wally ( and Dave ) Awesome work!!!
Rick Blair
From Denver
Joined Oct 16, 2007
246 points
Sep 29, 2009
Thanks for the kudos guys.

David - we used the Chongo 2 to 1 system to haul. The temps were warm - therefore the bags were heavy! - we drank about a gallon of water per person per day, not including all of the applesauce, fruit cocktail, etc. that was also consumed.

Paul - the Hollow Flake certainly has my respect. I thought it was pretty hard. The pro beta for that pitch is right on - bring a #5 for down low, and a #6 - and then you have to run it out for a long way on Yosemite 5.8 (or 5.9??) OW. Having Greg's homemade #7 camalot certainly took some of the commitment out of that pitch for me - I slid it along just about all of the way to the anchors. Lame - sure.!

:<). I am okay with that.

Great climb with very memorable pitches. Harder than the Nose - mostly because of the wide pitches. The Ear was nasty hard. Good stuff.

Climb Ohn. Wally
Wally
From Denver
Joined Apr 12, 2006
31 points
Sep 29, 2009
Climbing above Black Lake
real nice TR !! Mike Pharris
From Longmont, CO
Joined May 21, 2007
147 points
Sep 30, 2009
Gregger, that cam is beautiful! epoch
From Maine
Joined Dec 4, 2007
6 points
Administrator
Oct 6, 2009
Andrew Gram
That is an absolutely wonderful TR. Andrew Gram
From Salt Lake City, UT
Joined Jan 1, 2001
3,577 points
Feb 15, 2010
On the North America Wall in 1977.
Awesome! I would have shit my pants if I fell below the roof! Mark Hudon
Joined Jul 27, 2009
280 points
Feb 15, 2010
on top of the RNWF June 2012
how the hell did you make that cam? I know valley giant makes huge 12" cams that you can buy for around 200$ how much did that cost to make? Keenan Waeschle
From Bozeman, MT
Joined Feb 8, 2010
217 points
Feb 15, 2010
gg
keenan18 wrote:
how the hell did you make that cam? I know valley giant makes huge 12" cams that you can buy for around 200$ how much did that cost to make?

True, I could have bought a Valley Giant -- But I wanted to make a cam. I'm currently working on an offset cam design somewhat similar to an Alien, (but better).
I bought the aluminum for $40. The springs cost about $5.
I build guitars for a living, and one of the tools I use is a ShopBot CNC machine. I made a 3D model on the computer, then cut out the parts using the machine. Voilą: cam.
CAD/CAM cam
CAD/CAM cam
Gregger Man
Joined Aug 15, 2004
733 points
Feb 15, 2010
on top of the RNWF June 2012
nice! how'd you get your hands on a machine such as that? great TR, I would love to get on that route at some point. Keenan Waeschle
From Bozeman, MT
Joined Feb 8, 2010
217 points
Feb 15, 2010
gg
keenan18 wrote:
nice! how'd you get your hands on a machine such as that? great TR, I would love to get on that route at some point.

Thanks - it is a classic route.
20 years ago, buying a CNC machine was a $100K proposition.
Now there are machines in the sub-$2K range.
Learning 3D modeling isn't as easy as getting the machine, though.
Gregger Man
Joined Aug 15, 2004
733 points
Feb 16, 2010
just Jong it!
Strong Work! Thanks for sharing! That cam looks Sweet! Tea
Joined Feb 10, 2006
444 points
Feb 16, 2010
on top of the RNWF June 2012
make me one? I'll sign a wavier so my family won't sue you when the cam breaks and sends my body sailing off on a monster whipper into the slabs below..... Keenan Waeschle
From Bozeman, MT
Joined Feb 8, 2010
217 points
Feb 16, 2010
Mexico roadside rocks
What does the sucker weigh?

I looked up ShopBot CNC machine and they are $8000.
CO_Michael
Joined May 31, 2008
1,020 points
Site Landlord
Feb 16, 2010
Racked and loaded... name that splitter behind me?...
Awesome!

Out of curiosity - where does one buy a Valley Giant right now? My local REI seemed out of them.... :)

(I am serious though, where would I purchase one of these)
Andy Laakmann
From Bend, OR
Joined Jan 1, 2001
2,411 points
Feb 16, 2010
gg
keenan18 wrote:
make me one? I'll sign a wavier so my family won't sue you when the cam breaks and sends my body sailing off on a monster whipper into the slabs below.....


Well, I didn't include the time/labor factor in my description of the cost. I didn't charge myself for labor, but if I were to make cams like this for sale I would have to price them similar to the Valley Giant in order to make it a profitable deal. In the drawing, each blue line represents a pass of an 1/8" carbide bit at a depth of about 0.015" in the aluminum. Cutting out 4 lobes, a stem, and a trigger equals several hours of machine time. Industry standard is $60-$90/hour for CNC time (on the _low_ end.) - If my shop were set up for metal working instead of making lots of exotic sawdust, I could probably knock out those lobes in half an hour...

MichaelClimbs - It's pretty darn heavy. Getting it into my basement in pieces pulled several muscles. I built the table from steel I-beams. When I purchased mine in 2001, it cost ~$5000. The price has gone up. [edit: Oh, if you mean 'how heavy is the cam?': 1lb 15oz.]
Gregger Man
Joined Aug 15, 2004
733 points
Feb 16, 2010
Petit Grepon, RMNP. My first alpine route :-)
Nice work Greg! I seem to remember you from Eldo wearing the sweetest helmet I've ever seen....
Greg's helmet
Greg's helmet
Toni Schwarz
From Denver, CO
Joined Sep 4, 2008
10 points
Feb 16, 2010
gg
Toni Marie wrote:
Nice work Greg! I seem to remember you from Eldo wearing the sweetest helmet I've ever seen....


I am an inveterate DIY'er.
The removable hat brim with Velcro tabs and baling wire rim was cut from the Cordura of a discarded piece of luggage and lovingly stitched by hand. Keeps the sun off my lily-white skin.
You should see my piles of failed DIY experiments...
Gregger Man
Joined Aug 15, 2004
733 points
Feb 16, 2010
on top of the RNWF June 2012
home.pacbell.net/takasper/slcd...
valley giants!!
Keenan Waeschle
From Bozeman, MT
Joined Feb 8, 2010
217 points


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