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 ADVANCED
El Capitan Base Routes
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Ahab T 
Bluffer, The T 
Captain Hook, Left T 
Captain Hook, Right T 
Delectable Pinnacle, Right  T 
El Cap Tree T 
Footstool, Right, The T 
Freeblast T 
Gollum T 
Hardly Pinnacle T 
Indubious Battle T 
La Arista T,S 
La Cosita, Left T 
La Cosita, Right T 
La Escuela T 
Little John, Left T 
Little John, Right T 
Mark of Art T 
Masquerade/Call Me Ishmael S 
Moby Dick T 
Moby Dick, Left T 
Party Mix T 
Peter Left T 
Peter Pan T 
Pine Line T 
Pterodactyl Terrace, Left T 
Pterodactyl Terrace, Right T 
Reeds Leads T 
Sacherer Cracker T 
Salathe (pitch 1) T 
Seedy Leads T 
Short But Thin T 
Simulkrime T,TR 
Slack ( center), The T 
Slack, Left, The T 
Sparkling Give-away T,S 
TRON S 
West Buttress (pitch 1&2) T 

Salathe (pitch 1) 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 160'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Royal Robbins, Chuck Pratt, Tom Frost 1961
Page Views: 7,400
Submitted By: Nate Weitzel on Oct 8, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (72)
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AMAZING!

Description 

For the El Cap base routes, the first pitch of the Salathe provides a superb pitch that is technical, well protected and one of the best lines at the base. Locate the start by finding the line that usually is waiting for this one, near the point on the approach trail where you head left to get to Moby Dick. The start is 5.6 climbing up a groove / crack that if you can avoid placing gear in will minimize rope drag further up. Head toward a pair of thin cracks that wander up the vertical face and follow this to an obvious anchor. Outstanding climbing and spectacular position. Of course you can continue up for another 10 pitches for Freeblast, or finish the entire Salathe if you are feeling spunky.

Location 

Locate the line of people that starts where the approach trail heads left for Moby Dick. Located perhaps 50 ft right of Moby Dick.

Protection 

Double set of cams from 3/8" up to #3 camalot (3"). Nuts useful on this one as well.


Photos of Salathe (pitch 1) Slideshow Add Photo
Stephan seconding Salathe P1.
Stephan seconding Salathe P1.
First 120' - only 2880' more to go.
First 120' - only 2880' more to go.
Angela on p.1 of the Salathe
Angela on p.1 of the Salathe
Rob Eison continues to climb pitch one, it is getting better and better.
Rob Eison continues to climb pitch one, it is gett...
Doug following P1 of the Salathe.
Doug following P1 of the Salathe.
Salathe pitch 1, from the top.
Salathe pitch 1, from the top.
Rob Eison follows the first pitch of the Salathe.
Rob Eison follows the first pitch of the Salathe.

Comments on Salathe (pitch 1) Add Comment
Show which comments
By Sirius
From: Oakland, CA
May 12, 2008
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

This could be considered a "light" .10c for the Valley, in the same way that Serenity could be considered a light .10d. Good for pushing your limits. No show-stopper moves that I can remember, just a long pitch of good fingers and solid gear, with plenty of rests.

(Hard .10+'s might include Five and Dime, Waverly Wafer, Little Wing, any .10 at Arch Rock...)
By tallmark515
From: San Francisco
Mar 29, 2010
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

Not distinctive crux, but definetly sustained 5.10 climbing with great finger locks. I can agree that this would be a bit soft for valley .10c.

Regardless this is a fantastic pitch, probably one of the best that I have done in the valley. Perfect, sinker finger locks on a double crack system with great gear!