Salad Fingers  5.11b/c

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet Consensus:  5.11c [details] FA:  FFA: Tom Ramier, Tom Coe '05 Previous aid ascents: ??? Submitted By:  Drewsky on Dec 28, 2008 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

Above Natural Log Cabin/Deal with it Ranger is this arching corner. Begin via ledgy climbing (some loose blocks exist) and an easy chimney with a pin to the base of a thin groove reminiscent of initial Slow Children corner (but with a much thinner crack). Climb the groove using some small nuts and a pin and transfer into the upper corner (.11). Physical flared crack climbing with surprisingly good gear leads past a bolt (.11). Clip a flimsy looking pin and pull the roof with some trickery (.10+). Stop at the anchor here or continue past 3 or 4 bolts on the arete (.10) to another anchor at the very top of the Narrow Arrow.

Location 

The easiest way to approach this pitch is via Godzilla P1 and the retrobolted second pitch of Godzilla/The Cidiot (5.9, 5.10). The Cidiot continues to the right while the (overgrown) second pitch of Godzilla continues straight above. Some inconvenient downclimbing is involved (watch out for loose blocks). Alternate approaches are via Natural Log Cabin/Deal with it Ranger (fairly direct but may involve 20 feet of 5.10- runout), Narrow Arrow Overhang, or from the upper anchors on Narrow Arrow Direct via rappel. Some of these latter approaches would involve shenanigans.

Two 60m or 70m ropes are needed to rappel.

Protection 

Gear to 3 inches with extra small nuts and cams. One bolt on the first section; 3 or 4 on the arete. Fixed anchors for both options.

This corner may have been aided in the past; this entry is for the FFA.