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Tower Rock
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Salad Days 

Salad Days 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V British: S 4b [details]
FA: Doug Hemken, Jeff Hemken, Tom Philbin - 1979
Page Views: 436
Submitted By: saxfiend on Oct 25, 2009
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Description 

A nice, discontinuous big crack system that's stiff for the grade. Bring big gear!

Start at an obvious crack; follow this as it jogs left and right, passing some overhangs along the way. Top out on roots and pine needles.


Location 

Starts about 25' right of the Grunges. Rap from a big pine with slings and rap rings.


Protection 

Mostly medium cams and passive pro; several large pieces (up to #6 tech friend) are needed if you're going to protect this adequately.



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By Doug Hemken
Administrator
Nov 3, 2009

I had forgotten Jeff had an FA in the Gorge! Also, Tom Philbin was part of the team: the name was suggested by something he said.

By saxfiend
Administrator
From: Decatur, GA
Nov 3, 2009

Doug -- thanks for the update, I've included it in the route description.

It's funny, I'd hauled some of my big cams (#4 Camalot, #5 and #6 Tech Friends) with me this trip but hadn't used them, so I told my partner I was going to rack up with them on Salad Days just as a kind of joke. I was glad I did because I used all three on the onsight! Cool route.

By Doug Hemken
Administrator
Nov 4, 2009

Thirty years ago I think I had a total of 3 or 4 Friends (rigid stem) on my rack, in the 1-2 inch size. I would have had a #11 hex for big gear. We were using tube chocks in those days - among 6-8 of us we had one set we passed around. But I doubt I had them for this route, because the three of us did it as a spur of the moment thing. Only time I ever climbed it.

Back then Tower Rock was still a very popular place to crag, and "Caver's" and "Mighty Eidson" were first climbs for scores of beginners (and were therefore popular as first leads, too). I find it a little eerie now to go there and to Half Moon and not see anyone climbing!