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Washington
> Central-E Casca…
> Leavenworth
> Tumwater Canyon
> Castle Rock
> Upper Castle
Saints
5.8+ YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 2.4 from 41
votes
Routes in Upper Castle
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Angel T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Angel Dreads T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Blocks of Doom T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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By the Sea T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Canary T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Cat Burglar T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Century T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Crack of Doom T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Damnation Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Dan's Dreadful Direct (aka DDD) T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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Das Musak S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Devil's Delight T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Devil's Fright T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Directissima T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Equinox T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Hangdog T,TR 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Lucky Charms T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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MF Direct T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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MF Overhang T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Midway T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Midway Direct T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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No Such Thing as a Free Lunge T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
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Nose, of Jello Tower, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Old Gray Mare T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Orange Peel T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Rainbow Connection T,TR 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a PG13 |
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Rainshadow Direct S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Saber T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Saber Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Saints T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Short N' Sassy T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Slim Pickins T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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South Face, Jello Tower T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Winter Solstice T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | Fred Beckey.1957, FFA: Fred Beckey, Pat Callis, Steve Marts, 1963 |
| Page Views: | 3,630 total · 27/month |
| Shared By: | Geoff Georges on Oct 23, 2013 |
| Admins: | Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters, Mitchell McAuslan |
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Description
A very nice 3 pitch 5.8
The crux is getting up the first 20' and mid way up the 2nd pitch passing an old bolt/aluminum hanger on face moves.
When you get through the hard part of the 1st pitch, trend left till reaching a tree on a big ledge, a bolted anchor there.
The route veers up and right into a groove like inside corner or open book , pass 2 good pitons and the old bolt with aluminum angle for hanger. Veer right on a finger traverse ,pass another old piton and gain the arrete, either belay here or further up on horizontal cracks. Comes out on the north (left) side of the summit block.
I have led out from the bolted anchor all the way to the summit block in one pitch, even with scant gear and long slings pretty bad rope drag.
One should be a expert moss leader on this.
The crux is getting up the first 20' and mid way up the 2nd pitch passing an old bolt/aluminum hanger on face moves.
When you get through the hard part of the 1st pitch, trend left till reaching a tree on a big ledge, a bolted anchor there.
The route veers up and right into a groove like inside corner or open book , pass 2 good pitons and the old bolt with aluminum angle for hanger. Veer right on a finger traverse ,pass another old piton and gain the arrete, either belay here or further up on horizontal cracks. Comes out on the north (left) side of the summit block.
I have led out from the bolted anchor all the way to the summit block in one pitch, even with scant gear and long slings pretty bad rope drag.
One should be a expert moss leader on this.
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