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Saint George

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Saint George  


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Location: 37.0508, -113.593 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Tony B on Dec 2, 2003
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The Town of Saint George & some of it's surroundin...

Description 

In and around the city of Saint George various small crags exist. This sunny, southwest corner of the state boasts a little of everything, which I have only sampled, but am writing up here to get the ball rolling.

The crags are mostly good, but slightly soft sandstone, sporting crimpers, slopers, pockets and nice corners and a splitter here and there. There are also limestone crags to the south and to the west. There are walls facing in every given direction which can get sun or shade at various times of day, depending on which crag you are at.

Crags such as Chuckawalla Wall, Turtle Wall and Prophesy Wall are almost exclusively sport climbs which may remind climbers of the popular sport areas at Red Rock, NV. Bluff Street Cracks is noted for corners and cracks more reminiscent of Indian Creek. Cougar Cliffs, Black Rocks, Green Valley Gap are mostly sport with a few trad lines of note as well. Snow Canyon State Park has a good mixture of sport and trad.

Limestone areas include the Woodbury Road Crags, Utah Hills Crags, and the Virgin River Gorge.

The town of Saint George has plenty of services and hotels as well as nearby 'improved camping' at Snow Canyon State Park or free camping just outside town on BLM land. With the exception of Snow Canyon State Park and Crawdad Canyon the St. George crags are free access. While there may be no true classic lines on these cliffs worthy of a trip to the area, there are plenty of good routes in the area which could provide several days of climbing fun.


Getting There 

The directions for each individual crag will be more telling, but the journey to each starts near St. George Ave (I-15 Exit 8) or Bluff Street (I-15 Exit 6) in Saint George. The area is littered with cliffs, canyons, and crags.

Climbing Season



Weather station 2.3 miles from here

637 Total Routes

['4 Stars',49],['3 Stars',232],['2 Stars',251],['1 Star',90],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',19],['5.7',29],['5.8',41],['5.9',77],['5.10',203],['5.11',124],['5.12',67],['5.13',15],['>=5.14',5],['',0],['<=V1',6],['V2-3',14],['V4-5',20],['V6-7',12],['V8-9',5],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',1],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Saint George:
Israil   V6 7A     Boulder, 15'   Moe's Valley : South End
Gription   V9 7C     Boulder   Moe's Valley : Monkey Boy Area
Thousand Pints of Lite   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 3 pitches, 180'   Island In The Sky : Sand Dunes
Pygmy Alien   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 230'   Island In The Sky : Circus Wall
Leopard Skin   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, Sport, 4 pitches, 260'   Island In The Sky : Sand Dunes
Apostasy   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch   Chuckawalla Wall
Roar of the Greasepaint   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 2 pitches, 150'   Island In The Sky : Circus Wall
Sticky Revelations   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 3 pitches, 210'   Prophesy Wall
Living On The Edge   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, Sport, 4 pitches, 450'   Island In The Sky : Aftershock Wall
The Roofs of Jericho   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 2 pitches, 160'   Prophesy Wall
Director of Humor Affairs   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Turtle Wall
K-8   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 60'   Woodbury Road Crags : Kelly's Rock
As the Crows Fly   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Chuckawalla Wall
Banana Dance   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 40'   Turtle Wall
Sand Stoner Reverse   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 45'   Green Valley Gap
Second Coming   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Chuckawalla Wall
Heretic Wisdom   5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a     Sport, 50'   Welcome Springs : The Wailing Wall
Speaking In Tongues   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 65'   Welcome Springs : The Cathedral
Natural Born Drillers   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Welcome Springs : The Cathedral
Spaceshuttle to Kolob   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport   Welcome Springs : The Cathedral
Browse More Classics in Saint George

Featured Route For Saint George
This is Matt Budd on Device Ignitor Left.

Divice Ignitor Left V6 7A  UT : Saint George : ... : Device Ignitor Boulder
This is a line that goes up the left side of the overhang. It starts on two pockets and moves left. Really fun line with some powerful moves....[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

Photos of Saint George Slideshow Add Photo
Desert area in washington Warner Valley. Pine Valley Mountain in the background.
Desert area in washington Warner Valley. Pine Vall...
Red Dog Cafe on 18 between St George and Veyo has killer food at a great price. Highly reccomended.
Red Dog Cafe on 18 between St George and Veyo has ...
Slick Rock Park St. George
BETA PHOTO: Slick Rock Park St. George
Great for rest days to play around on or after it has rained in STG.
BETA PHOTO: Great for rest days to play around on or after it ...

Comments on Saint George Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 18, 2014
By nooky brown
Apr 5, 2005
Just a quick comeback on Clays spray.I fully agree on the quality of stone and routes at the VRG.It must be noted though,if you do not climb 5.12 and your into the whole wilderness experience don't waste your time.

There are some crags within an hour of the VRG that have nice stone/routes/views but in the end its still just sport climbing. (not that there is anything wrong with that)
By Blake Cash
Apr 5, 2010
The VRG's cool and all...but come on...there are far more beautiful and quiet zones in the Utah hills with HARD routes to boot.

With that being said...everyone should visit:

El Amate in St George. Family owned/operated authentic mexican food. Gorgeous presentation of the food, cheaply priced and they give you free desert at the end of the meal. Located on Sunset near the Albertsons. Go support these guys!
By steve edwards
From: SLC, UT
May 3, 2010
Seconding the El Amate comment. I eat pretty much every meal here when I'm in St George. It's just plain ridiculous that this place hasn't caught on with climbers because it's cheap and outstanding in an area with a serious dearth of Mexican food that isn't just cheap beans and rice drapped in cheese. My friend who runs a taqueria blog in California claims it's as good as almost anywhere he's been. I've pimped this to a lot of locals and have gotten comments back like "when we're on that side of town we like to eat at Bajios". WTF?!!!!

Admittedly, their lack of beer is a problem (they claim to be trying to rectify this).
By Mattym
Apr 9, 2011
Ernestos, right across the street from El Amate, has beer and killer food! Don't let the strip mall appearances fool you.
By Marius vanderMerwe
From: Saint George, UT
Apr 25, 2011
This introduction and description of the St. George area crags is in need of an update. The comments about the area lacking in true classics or not being a climbing destination is at best a minority opinion or at worst a complete misrepresentation. In fact, very few areas in the world can compete with the variety (limestone, sandstone, basalt, tufa and conglomerate) and quality (especially the limestone) of rock and climbs available in the St. George area. Add the proximity of Zion's big walls and SW Utah becomes a climber's paradise.
By ZachBradford
Apr 26, 2011
I agree that the description should be rewritten. The area is/has become a destination climbing area with more than a few classic routes.
By Calvino
From: Bellingham, WA
Oct 29, 2011
Heads up.

I had my car broken into at Chuckawalla Wall in St. George Yesterday 20/28/11. My trad rack was stolen as well as a red Rab shell, and a brown OR puffy with Zion Adventure Company Embroidered on it. My girlfriend had her luggage stolen with her purse, all her clothing, jewelry, bike gear, sleeping bag, etc.

It never feels good to be violated in this way, and I want to offer a warning to be careful at some of these trailheads.

I am posting a list of what was stolen separately, but if anyone sees this equipment turn up please contact me. All my gear has purple duct tape, or purple paint on it.
By jtwalter
From: Orem, UT
Dec 15, 2011
Sad news: Looks like El Amate is now closed. Went there on 2011-12-10 and looked like it was being renovated for a new business.
By steve edwards
From: SLC, UT
Jan 1, 2012
El Amate is, indeed, closed. As is Scaldoni's and the weird coffe/music house back off Dixie Dr and the cool upscale coffee house in Santa Clara that were all outstanding. As thus, this trip to St. George has been a eating nightmare. "Like food you'd get in prison" is how one restauranteer put it about the kind of crap that gets served in most American small towns. St. George is one of the worst offenders and, I suppose, they deserve it since every time something decent opens up it goes under in a few years, no matter how stellar reviews on it are. Every restaurant I've been in this week has been packed and 100% God-"we can't even give this to the dogs"--awful. Exception is Xatava in the Kayenta housing development, which was very good and not crowded at all, meaning it's probably going to bite the dust soon as well. What the hell is wrong with these people? I guess this is why every time I ask a local climber for a recommendation the answer is the same "I stopped eating in restaurants when I moved here."
By Evan C
Jan 31, 2013
There's no mention of seasons... What time of year does it typically get warm enough to enjoy climbing?
By Andrew Gram
Administrator
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Feb 1, 2013
It is generally warm enough all winter at the sunny crags.
By Eric Montandon
From: Orem, Ut
Feb 12, 2013
Dose anyone have directions to get to the BLM land it mentions in the description?
By grk10vq
Administrator
Feb 12, 2013
The BLM land suggested is the Curly Hollow Road area in Bloomington. This is about 6 miles away from Moes, closer than Prophesy, and just west of town. If you are familiar with the Bearclaw Poppy mnt. bike trail, it ends at Navaho Drive in Bloomington. If you were to continue on that gravel road, northwest, you come to wide open desert that is appropriate for dispersed camping for up to 14 days.
By Branden Michelkamp
From: Menomonie WI
Mar 15, 2013
I have a question for a local folk with good area understanding.

I am an AMGA SPI guide and I will be spending a day or two in St. George, I have an interview. I have a friend coming with me who is fairly inexperienced but athletic. I would like to get him on a 5.6-5.7 route around 3 or more pitches, any suggestions?

Thank you,
Branden Michelkamp
By Travis England
Feb 15, 2014
Where do Saint George locals climb in the summer?
By B Roth
From: st george, ut
Feb 26, 2014
For the most part they climb at all the places that they climb at in the winter - just at different times of the day. Some places are a bad idea to visit in the summer like the underworld or zen wall because they have such a short shade window.
By James Wieman
From: Southern Utah
Apr 13, 2014
Does anyone know who set the bolts for the highline slackline at the green valley gap? I am interested in doing it and could use some advice on the subject.

James Wieman
(815) 670-6972
jwieman@live.com
By Austin Harris
Apr 25, 2014
FREE CAMPING- several sites right by the parking lot of the Prophecy Wall cuz this is BLM land. obviously no bathrooms or water here tho.

FREE SHOWERS- fitness center at Dixie state University just north of football field in St. George. 225 South 700 E. (S University Ave.) 435-652-7989

COFFEE HOUSE- Perks Espresso in St. George has couches and free wi-fi. 1515 W Sunset Blvd. 435-628-8413. they have a few locations around St. G

The Prophecy Wall has a ton of great moderate, 1-3 pitch sport routes, and some trad.
By Austin Harris
May 2, 2014
The campsites near the prophecy wall were not too trashed a few days ago. We bagged out a bunch of cigarette butts and broken glass today tho. I know climbers are better than to leave trash in the campsites or crags, but it would help a lot if we each bagged some trash out when we come. Lets keep this awesome crag in great shape!
By Aaron Stout
3 days ago
Is there any climbing near Sand Hallow Reservoir? I don't know if that what's it's called, my wife's friends family has a house down there and I am wondering if there is any climbing near that place? Or looking for kid friendly climbs? Thanks.