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Sven Tower 2
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Sail On  T,S 

Sail On  

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 454
Submitted By: ClimbPHX.com on Oct 31, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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BETA PHOTO: 100 foot wide, split into three sections by two ch...
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Description 

I thought the crux was at the transition to the main crack - there was a dusty shoot to clean and a med nut fit fine - but it was a dedicated move


Location 

The Route is the first obvious line on the right of the trail that branches off from the North Side of Sven 2 - it usually in the sun becuase its easternly face.


Protection 

3 bolts - 2 bottom and one to protect the headwall at the top


Description 

I thought the crux was at the transition to the main crack - there was a dusty shoot to clean and a med nut fit fine - but it was a dedicated move


Location 

The Route is the first obvious line on the right of the trail that branches off from the North Side of Sven 2 - it usually in the sun because its easternly face.


Protection 

3 bolts - 2 bottom and one to protect the headwall at the top



Comments on Sail On Add Comment
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By ZEric
From: Surprise, AZ
Mar 9, 2012

2 pitches, the first is perhaps 170', the second is much shorter, maybe 60'. Rap off the back side (one 60M is sufficient), and scramble down to the saddle between tower ii and iii.

Mostly small to medium pro, belay stations are bolted.

By William Nelson
From: Cave Creek, AZ
Dec 9, 2012

There are not two pitches. There is one pitch about 100 ft. Two bolt anchor. Crux is clip first bolt. Traverse left to crack committing but not difficult

By Ted Smith
From: Scottsdale, AZ
May 1, 2013

ZEric is probably talking about the main route on Sven Tower II. It goes at 5.6, with three pitches possible. It is best to do that route with the first pitch about 100 ft. and then just linking the top two pitches at 130 ft. or so.

By David E.
From: Mesa, AZ
Oct 6, 2013

The wall in the picture and the route description associated with the picture is of Cary'd Away, not Sail On. This wall is considered to be part of Sven Tower I. The wall is on the north side of the saddle between Sven Tower I and Sven Tower II.

ZEric and Ted Smith are describing the long climb on Sven Tower II (not sure of the name, it may be Sail On). It follows the obvious low angle arete if you look south from the saddle between Sven Towers I and II. I would agree with Ted Smith that the climb they are describing goes at 5.6. (this route is in the picture on the main Sven Tower II page)