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The Prow
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Sail Away 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Paul Davidson, Tim Coats, Jim Haisley, early '80's
Page Views: 2,999
Submitted By: seldomwolf on Aug 20, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (17)
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Tim Coats powering up the crux on the first ascent...

Description 

The climb starts with a some face climbing, finger and hand jams to a ledge(5.11-). Traverse right on the ledge to the obvious crack. Climb the crack(tips to hands) to the rim.

Location 

1st crack system right of the prow, shares same start as mutiny on the bounty

Protection 

black alien, doubles tips to thin hands(.3-1 camalot),1 hand size(#2 camalot)


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Second of the sequence.
Second of the sequence.
Third of the sequence.
Third of the sequence.

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By Larry Coats
Jan 10, 2008

Sorry, thought I'd updated the FA info: FA Tim Coats, Paul Davidson, and Jim Haisley, early '80's, with some effort. The start then was easier then, since a column on the lower section has fallen over since the FA.
By Michael Sokoloff
From: Spokane, WA
Mar 23, 2008
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

Although this climb has a 15-foot stretch of awesome and intense climbing, it is by no means a 4-star route. Detracting from it are the average start which is shared with other routes as well as the ledge in the middle which breaks the route's continuity. In my opinion, to gain max stars there has to be both awesome moves as well as a sustained nature like The Prow, Davidson Dihedral, Paradise Lost. I give Sail Away 3-stars.
By Paul Davidson
May 20, 2008
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

The "average start" was originally not shared with the other routes. They came later on. Not sure what's average about the start. I recall (which doesn't mean much these days) it being steep and no give away.

While I agree Paradise Lost is overall a cleaner climb, it doesn't come close to Sail Away for pure crack moves. PL is a basically a lieback. You can't really cheat your way up SA.

Well... you can (A) yard on gear, (B) TR it first.

As for stars, grades, etc.... to each his own but I'm more up with Salathe's, "Why can't we just climb?" I've done no star routes I thought were awesome and 4 star routes that I thought were heaps. I've done routes that one day were 4 stars for me and another time were no stars. It's just all too subjective. Better to just rack and roll.
By Michael Sokoloff
From: Spokane, WA
Jul 11, 2008
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

I find a great deal of value and enjoyment in star ratings for climbs. Like a fine wine, the quality of a climb is purely subjective although most climbs considered "classics" have widespread reverence. Like wine, climbs can change over time with holds disappearing (or hopefully not being added). My bottle of '94 Chateau Latour is nothing like the vintage before or after it and the Joker is not the same route since the opening "jug" broke off (I think it's better). My palate for wine has changed over the years, as have my preferences for climbs. You're probably sitting there thinking either 1) what's with this wine snob posing as a climber, or 2) I'd like to come over to this guy's house for dinner.

The bottom line is that I think grading quality of climbs is very important, although the most important ratings are your own. I find it a worthwhile and rewarding endeavor comparing my thoughts to others such as yours, others on the site and authors of guidebooks. The details of whether Paradise Lost is a better climb than Sail Away or vise versa are irrelevant. I didn't know Salathe, but I imagine he spent many of his finest hours engaged in passionate discussions about "the classics".
By Mike
From: Phoenix
Jul 25, 2008
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

Sketchy start, hard middle, and fun top.
By chuck claude
From: Flagstaff, Az
Jun 26, 2009
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a

I'm with Mike on this. The climbing is very good, but the 10-15ft of business is out of character with the rest of the route. As for 5.12b, I don't know. While the crux is fairy stiff with really poor feet, its just so short, and you can do a few moves and then its over.