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Campi Qui Pugui
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Anabolica 
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Saiko Dase 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 85'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c [details]
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Submitted By: Monomaniac on Dec 10, 2009
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Beginning the steep, cruxy middle section of Saiko...

Description 

This is a good warmup and a worthwhile route if you came all this way to climb a bolted crack. Begin below an easy-looking, left-leaning ramp with a crack in the back. Cruise the easy crack to the top of the flake. Move left, around the ring bolt (avoiding the sweet-looking line of pockets on the orange & black face out right) & grovel up the sharp groove. Things get cruxy at a small bulge in black rock. On the slab, the crack gets more interesting with the odd nice pocklet and better rock.


Location 

The right end of the Campi cliff has a high ledge with ~10 routes. This is the first route to the left of the high ledge, beginning from a precarious perch above a downclimb in the approach trail.


Protection 

Bolts to 2 BA.



Photos of Saiko Dase Slideshow Add Photo
The fun, trivial start of Siako Dase.
The fun, trivial start of Siako Dase.
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