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Select Route:
Monkey Dihedral 
Saigon 
Saigon Direct 

Saigon 

V5-6

   
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Type: Boulder, 22 feet
Consensus: V6- [details]
FA: Tommy Klinefelter
Submitted By: Alex Shainman on Sep 7, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (25)
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Trying Saigon

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Description 

This awesome singular prow problem on perfect rock is a 3 move wonder in between easier sections, but man, those are 3 killer moves.

Teasingly easy entry moves lead to two height-dependent crux sequences. For most taller people like myself, its a wild lean out right with the right hand to a sloper-type thingy utilizing a left heel hook. A left hand power up to a bulbous crimp sets you up for the big, flying move to a killer jug! Match and crank off a few knobs and small but positive plates up off the deck, to the blunt top out.

Other people may have to match hands on the bulbous crimp (YIKES!!) and continue.

IMO this is a height-dependent rating...

This boulder problem is sooo good, it got me psyched to get my pads out of storage!!


Protection 

crash pads and spotters till you get it wired



Photos of Saigon Slideshow Add Photo
This is definitely height dependent and is more like V8 for shorter people with the match on the small crimp.

This is definitely height dependent and is more li...

Saigon

Saigon

Wills on Saigon

Wills on Saigon

Aaron Brillhart on Saigon

Aaron Brillhart on Saigon


Comments on Saigon Add Comment
Show which comments
By Adam Winters
Administrator
From: the Shire
Mar 3, 2008
rating: V5-6

I agree that this rating is height-dependent. matching on that sloping bulb/crimp is heinous... don't fall off the top

By Peter Franzen
Administrator
From: Phoenix, AZ
Mar 31, 2008
rating: V5-6

That jug is sharp as hell.

The topout is a lot of fun too-- the holds are good, but you do gain some altitude up there.

By Tim Steele
From: Bishop, CA.
Feb 8, 2011

FA was Tommy Klinefelter

By Andy Liu
From: Bay Area, CA
Jan 24, 2013