An impressive boulder perched high on the hillside featuring one of the best lines at the Buttermilks (Saigon) and numerous worthy warm-up highballs on the east face. If you think you can mantle, have a look at 'Fight Club' on the west face.
Warning: Downclimbing this boulder may be very difficult and scary for a beginner climber. You have two options: downclimb then jump off the north face onto pads, or downclimb one of the tall and exposed east face routes (v0-v1 R).
From the Peabody Parking Area, walk up the main trail past the Green Wall Boulder. From here the Saigon Boulder can be seen as the highest boulder on the hill. The route 'Saigon' will be the gently overhanging arete/prow on the right (southeast) side of the boulder.
Stem your way up the shallow scoop into the "dihedral" using good sidepulls, gastons and other edges. Exit right at the top of the dihedral or continue straight up for full value....[more]Browse More Classics in CA