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Wheeler Wall
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With The Wind 

Sahrrite 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 110'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: E. Fazio-Rhicard and co.
Page Views: 608
Submitted By: Almonzo on Aug 21, 2003
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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BETA PHOTO: Up to the arete.
Closed to climbing, March 15 - June 30 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Head for the bottom right corner of Wheeler Wall to get to the base of this climb. The route climbs near the buttress that forms the right edge of the wall.

This is a nice long route with mixed types of climbing. The first two thirds follow the crack that diagonals up alongside the buttress. After this head up the face past two bolts to easier climbing above. The route protects pretty well and is easier than many other 5.7s on Lemmon.

This pitch is more than 1/2 a rope length, even with a 60m rope, so follow the easy and obvious walkoff to get down.


Protection 

Four bolts on the route, plus a nice crack section that takes small/medium nuts and cams. Bolts at the summit.



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Looking down the route
BETA PHOTO: Looking down the route
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By Wes Turner
From: az
Aug 18, 2004
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

Fun route.. I ran it out pretty severly and didn't use any gear but it looked as though anything from tiny TCU's to a #2cam would go. there are 4 bolts plus one bolt with no hanger? I sinched a nut to it and clipped that.

By Jerry Cagle
From: Tucson, AZ
May 11, 2006
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b PG13

This route takes almost an entire 60m rope to reach the anchors. It's difficult to protect the upper section after you leave the crack section and reach a sloping ledge it's a pretty commiting move out onto the face. If you fall you will hit something... something hard. There is an old bolt sticking out of the rock that might protect this move, but the hanger is missing...

By Jerry Cagle
From: Tucson, AZ
May 24, 2006
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b PG13

Repeated this route recently, and we pitched it out into 3... Belayed at the base of the crack, then again on the ledge just before the upper face.

By Christian
From: Casa do Cacete
Sep 10, 2007
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

Like Wes said, use a nut and cinch it down on the bolt stud to protect the crux move left onto the face near the top.. Probably more like a solid 5.8 move.

By adrian korosec
From: tucson,az
Oct 8, 2012

One pitch from bottom to top no problem with 60m. Plenty of pro and 5 bolts en route. Hangerless bolt now has nice hanger.

When I first did it c. 5 years ago I only remember two bolts low on the route. Was one added or is my memory fading? It's not needed and next to a crack that takes gear. 5.7 and safe.

VERY fun pitch, one of the best 5.7 on the mtn. Thanks EFR.