Sagittarius 5.10a/b
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 90 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10c [details] |
| FA: | To ringing flake: Pat Timson. FFA to roof: Mark Moore. FFA P1 full: Terry Lien, Jon Nelson. P2: Terry Lien, Darryl Cramer |
| Season: | Whenever it's dry |
| Submitted By: | jonah on Feb 13, 2006 |
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Ryan Triplett on Sagittarius
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Description Just to the left of Japanese Gardens is this obvious line of hand cracks and traversing roofs. Start on the ledges above the big stump on the trail and lieback a wide flare for about 10 feet to a short finger crack. Move right into a sweet steep handcrack, up into a wide (6"?) crack that traverses left. Clip the fixed chock before the traverse, and walk a # 5 Camalot to the end if you want to protect this section, or drag will become an issue. At the end of the traverse there is a set of anchors. Skip this and get into the chimney above it. Walk your #5 up this section again until the chimney narrows and you step out onto the face to commit to the perfect handcrack above. You'll hit the "ringing flake" here. Spooky. The handcrack cruises through it to the anchor up above (from which you can TR Iron Horse, too). A 5.11 variation goes through the roof above this anchor.
Protection Several hand-size pieces (at least double #2 Camalots and maybe double #3s to sew it), a few smaller cams, and a healthy selection of large cams. A #5, while not necessary, would ease the mind a bit.
Ryan on the upper handcrack of Sagitarius.
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Kevin Rose on Sagittarius
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The traverse has good feet. #4 friends work...
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finishing the traverse
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crawling up the flake
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By Jesse James
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Mar 13, 2006
rating: 5.11b
| The full first pitch (5.11b) is one of the best on the lower wall. This pitch has everything you could ever want on a climb. It's the only climb I have ever enjoyed that I place a #3, #3.5, #4, and a #4.5 camalot on. |
By Sherri Lewis
From: Sequim, WA
Jul 28, 2012
rating: 5.10a/b
| A fellow climber aptly described this amazing route as "a voyage." It takes you through so many big, improbable features that by the time you reach the final stretch of steep handcrack, you'll feel as though it was twice as long. Shorter folk will get an extra thrill on the traverse under the roof, as you may not reach the undercling to use for balance.
Gearwise, I find that placing a #3.5 in lieu of clipping the chockstone inspires a bit more confidence for the wide section til you can get a #4 at the roof. A #5 is bomber for the chimney and a few .75's and #1's are nice in the upper handcrack. A single #3 was sufficient but you could probably place another if you bring more. |
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